Extra: There is an interesting Museu Municipal here, too, with documents relating to the Archduke Ludwig.
One of the island’s most beautiful inland towns, Valldemossa is best known as the home of the writer George Sand and her lover, Frédéric Chopin. The couple were lodged in the former Carthusian monastery, La Real Cartuja de Valldemossa, which was in use from 1399 until 1835, when the monks were expelled and their cells were sold as apartments – although the ‘cells’ were three-room suites with private gardens. Those rented by Sand and Chopin are now a museum, which displays manuscripts, Chopin’s death mask and his piano. You can also visit the massive church, the pharmacy, with a beautiful collection of 18th-century ceramic jars, the library and the Prior’s Cell, complete with a life-size model of a prior.
Extra: There is an interesting Museu Municipal here, too, with documents relating to the Archduke Ludwig.
The magnificent Santuari de Lluc is home to the venerated La Moreneta, a dark-stone statue of the Madonna and Child, which has drawn pilgrims since the 13th-century. According to legend, it was discovered by an Arab boy called Lluc, whose family had converted to Christianity. He took the statue to the church of Sant Pere in the tiny village of Escorça nearby, but it kept returning to the place where he had found it, so it was finally allowed to stay and a chapel was built to house it.
Extra: If you attend Mass in the church during the school year you’ll be able to hear the Lluc boys’ and girls’ choir.
One of the most popular attractions on the island, the Coves del Drac are a beautifully presented cave system with one of the world’s largest underground lakes. Seven daily tours in summer (four in winter) run through 2km (1 mile) of brightly lit chambers and spectacular formations, culminating with classical music recitals and boat trips on the 177m (581ft)-long subterranean lake named after Edouard-Alfred Martel, the French speleologist who explored the caves in 1896.
Set on the slopes of the Teix massif, Deià is a delightful town of honey-coloured stone that has attracted artists, writers and assorted expatriates for years. However, it is Robert Graves, the poet and author of I, Claudius and the autobiographical Goodbye to All That, who came here with American writer Laura Riding in 1929, who is most closely associated with the place. Graves loved Deià and fiercely defended the northwest coast against commercial exploitation. It was largely due to his efforts that the area was designated a protected zone. His home, Ca N’Alluny, has been restored and opened as a museum. The house and garden are delightful, and retain much of their original character as well as exhibiting the writer’s effects.
Extra: Narrow, winding streets lead to the top of the village and the little church of Sant Joan Bautista. Beside it is a small cemetery overlooking the Mediterranean; a simple cement slab bears the inscription ‘Robert Graves, Poeta, 1895–1985’.
Extra: About five minutes’ walk to the east is Can Prunera, a Modernist house which is now a museum dedicated to the movement.
Extra: The Mirador de Ricardo Roca has fantastic views of the coast, and a huge restaurant in which to sit and enjoy them.
Extra: Drop by for the “wine fair” in May - a wine-tasting weekend set in magnificent surroundings in the heart of old town Pollensa.
Extra: Drive 10 minutes from Fornalutx to Mirador Ses Barques, a restaurant with a knock-out ocean view.
Extra: The almond groves on this route blossom profusely in January and February.
Extra: There’s an outdoor bar (usually) selling glasses of freshly squeezed orange juice – a snip at just €2.
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