Best things to do in Dunkirk

For many visitors, the harbour is one of the most interesting parts of Dunkirk, imbued as it is with shared military history. The Port Museum easily has enough activities and exhibits to fill an entire day, with a traditional museum, a lighthouse, and three floating museums in the form of ships, open for you to board and explore. There's also the 1940 – Operation Dynamo museum, which offers a fascinating insight into the historic evacuation. After a visit here, stroll along past Bastion 32 and the impressive Grand Large Bridge, then along Rue Militaire to Bastion 28 with its panoramic vista of the Dunkirk coastline.

If you fancy walking just a little further along the atmospheric jetty, you can get a real sense of the historical gravity of the location, not to mention a stunning view and a great burst of fresh air. Away from the harbour, on the other side of town, complete your historical tour with a trip to the Fort des Dunes. Here you can explore the former French barracks built in the late nineteenth century, strategically concealed in the sand dunes.

One of Dunkirk's best-kept secrets is its thriving modern art scene. Start your cultural immersion with a visit to Frac Grand Large, a bold modern art venue with interactive and avant-garde exhibits housed in a unique, warehouse-inspired structure that pays homage to the dock's shipbuilding history. Just a short walk away in the beautiful surrounds of a sculpture park lies the LAAC, a contemporary art and culture museum with pieces dating from WWII to the present day.

The town's belfry, meanwhile, showcases architecture from a different era. Dating from the 15th century, the elegant tower tempts visitors to the top with promises of glorious views of the area. Sadly, the lift doesn't carry you all the way up, but when you do get there, you'll likely hear the tuneful bells that chime every 15 minutes. For art off the beaten track, head to Leffrinckoucke beach. Not only is the long, sandy stretch well worth a walk and a paddle, at one end you'll find artfully graffitied World War II bunkers and a sculpture by local artist ‘Anonyme’, who transformed the concrete block using shards of broken mirror to create a powerful and otherworldly image.

Naturally, on any trip to the French coast, it would be remiss not to spend a few days soaking up the sun and scenery at the beach. The main beach in Dunkirk, Malo-Les-Bains, is popular for its quaint backdrop, and of course for its role in the history of the D-Day landings. The beach is a long, sandy expanse backed by a promenade packed with colourful restaurants and ice-cream stalls – we highly recommend French fries and mussels for a truly authentic experience.

You can also hire pedal-karts to cruise along the waterfront, which is great fun for kids young and old. Just a short drive away, right on the border with Belgium, are two sand-dune nature reserves, Dune Marchand and Dune du Perroquet, which offer a slightly wilder beach experience. Birdwatchers will have the opportunity to spot migratory species and perhaps hear a nightingale. And even if you're not a bird enthusiast, who could resist roving through the dunes, watching the sand move like water and gazing out at the seemingly endless beach? At low tide, it's hard to even see the sea out there.

Every year since the early 17th century, Dunkirk has celebrated its fishermen and their families by holding a carnival, traditionally before the anglers headed out to sea for six months. These days, you're unlikely to find fishermen setting sail for half a year, but the locals love the tradition of the carnival, and it continues in all its colourful, noisy, quirky glory. The Carnaval de Dunkerque takes place over several weeks, culminating in three days of events on the Sunday, Monday and Tuesday before Ash Wednesday.

Over these three days – Les Trois Joyeuses – locals take to the streets in opulent fancy dress, holding vibrantly coloured umbrellas (as is the tradition) and escorted by musicians, marching bands, singers and dancers. The parade also includes giant, colourful puppets called reuzes. There are often huge dances and street parties, and eating out is a big part of this joyous affair. The parade ends in the town hall square, where the people call the mayor onto the balcony so that he or she can drop 450 kilos of smoked herring into the crowd – thankfully, it's wrapped! It's unusual, but a thoroughly traditional and charming experience if you're looking for something different.