Rab holidays

Local dishes in Rab

Seafood in the Kvarner is as good as anywhere in Croatia, but there are plenty of other culinary delicacies which make holidays to Rab a standout destination for food lovers. There are plenty of good fish and seafood restaurants in Rab’s Old Town, and although some are quite stylish they remain affordable.

Some typical dishes

• Scampi na buzaru: Served in a rich garlic and white wine sauce, the scampi are invariably served whole and unpeeled – you are supposed to prize them open with your fingers and suck out the white flesh. Have a serviette to hand …

• Rabska torta: A delicious local speciality, this is really more of a pie than a cake, consisting of marzipan wrapped in sugary dough that is part pastry, part biscuit.

Meat dishes

• Ćevapi: Juicy rissoles of grilled minced meat served with ajvar (a pepper-based condiment) and flatbread – the classic Balkan staple.

• Pašticada: Big slabs of beef stewed in prunes and red wine, this dish features on the lunchtime menus of almost every konoba.

Fish and seafood dishes

• Brodet: A mouthwatering fish stew comprising various types of fish, to which tomatoes and wine are added. It is typically served with polenta.

• Sardele na žaru: Grilled sardines, a simple yet flavour-filled dish which you can find in just about any restaurant.

Street food

• Burek: A savoury pastry filled with meat, cheese or spinach, perfect for a quick snack on the run.

• Fritule: Small, doughnut-like pastries dusted with powdered sugar, often flavoured with citrus zest or raisins.

Local drinks

• Rakija: There’s nothing like a shot of rakija (grape brandy) to oil the wheels of social intercourse. Knock back a herb-infused travarica or carob-flavoured rogačica for a truly heart- and soul-warming experience.

• Wine: The most famous of the region’s wines is Vrbnička Žlahtina, an excellent white from Vrbnik on Krk’s east coast.

Best things to do in Rab

Mainland-hugging Rab is the smallest but arguably the most beautiful of the main Kvarner Gulf islands. Its eastern side is rocky and harsh, the western side is lush and green, with a sharply indented coast and some beautiful coves.

Viewpoints and panoramas

• Kamenjak Hill: Climb to the top of Kamenjak Hill for breathtaking views over Rab town and the surrounding islands. It’s a short hike that rewards you with stunning panoramas.

• Rab Bell Towers: Climb each of Rab Town’s four bell towers for different, but equally glorious, perspectives of the island.

The best districts

• Rab Old Town: Peninsula-hugging medieval town famous for its skyscraping church belfries.

• Lopar peninsula: Truly sandy beaches in Croatia are few and far between, but this scrub-covered peninsula is studded with them.

Museums

• Museum of the Sacred Heart: Tucked away inside St Justine’s Church, this sweet little collection comprises medieval robes, manuscripts and painted panels, but somewhat more gruesomely, the skull of St Christopher.

Parks and gardens

• Komrčar Park: A beautiful park near Rab’s old town, offering winding paths, hilly greenery, and easy-to-find secluded spots - not to mention some much sought-after shade as protection from the searing summer heat.

Historical monuments

• Church of St Mary the Great: Gorgeous Romanesque church whose west front is striped pale grey and pink, with a series of blind arches cut by a Renaissance doorway that supports a harrowing Pietà of 1514.

• Monastery of St Euphemia: Built in 1446, it has a delicate cloister and a museum in the library above which contains illuminated manuscripts, a headless Roman figure of Diana and a 15th-century wooden image of St Francis.

Day trips in the area

• Goli Otok: Rab is the jumping-off point for excursions to Goli Otok, site of a notorious labour camp during the communist period.

• Krk Island: A short ferry ride away, and the Adriatic’s largest island, Krk’s highlights are Krk Town, a historic little place with scraps of city wall surrounding a compact old centre; and Baška, a fishing village-cum-tourist resort with a spectacular sandy beach.

Activities for families in Rab

While the island’s beaches are in many ways the default family activity, there are more than enough other pursuits to keep the hordes entertained.

• Beaches: Presiding over a broad shallow bay with sweeping views, Veli mel is a genuinely sandy affair and a favourite with young families.

• Coffee and ice cream: What better way to bond than over coffee and ice cream? Cafés and ice-cream parlours abound in the Old Town, and at night the main Trg Municipium Arbe takes on the appearance of a huge outdoor bar, with chairs and tables covering the flagstones.

• Boat trips: Enjoy a family-friendly boat trip around Rab and the neighbouring islands, excursions that often include stops for swimming and the chance to explore hidden coves.

Free things to do in Rab

It may be quite small, but that doesn’t mean to say that there aren’t plenty of free activities to partake in on the island, most of which are in or around Rab Town itself.

• Free events: July’s Rapska fjera festival is a three-day gala when the town reverts to the Middle Ages, with street stalls, processions, knightly tournaments and crossbow competitions the cornerstones of a superb programme.

• Beaches: Šetalište Fra Odorika Badurine is one of the best urban beaches in Croatia – the water is super-clear, and there are plenty of trees to provide shade. Far more popular is the Frkanj peninsula, which boasts numerous rocky coves backed by deep green forest, and there’s even a large naturist area here.

• Nature walks: The trails around Komrčar Park and the Frkanj Peninsula offer stunning views and a chance to exercise and enjoy the island’s natural beauty at no cost.

Nature and outdoor activities in Rab

Both the island of Rab itself and the easily accessible mainland are ripe for any number of adventurous pursuits, although the latter is better for hiking.

• Hiking: The Northern Velebit National Park is a highland hiking paradise offering some of the most exhilarating hiking in southeastern Europe, though it can also be a dangerous place for the unprepared. Close encounters of the brown-bear kind are not uncommon either.

• Cycling: Rab is superb cycling terrain with a mix of flat routes and more challenging ones for more experienced cyclists. One good outfit is RABike, who offer guided tours across the island, including sand, forest and mountain adventures.

• Sea kayaking: The clear, calm waters of Kvarner Bay attract sea kayakers from all over, and you’ll see shoals of orange-bibbed paddlers along the shoreline – it’s a great way to view the island from a different perspective. Stand-up paddleboarding is big here too.