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Wandering around the San Giuseppe dei Teatini (Church of Saint Joseph of the Theatine Fathers) is one of the best things to do in Palermo. This 17th-century Baroque church has a misleadingly simple facade, with a wealth of detail inside, including the likes of tumbling angels and lavish side chapels. As you walk down the central aisle, it’s hard not to feel moved by the splendour and decorative beauty of the place.
Best for: Inner-city churches.
While you’re there: There are a couple of good bars in the piazza just over the road.
If you’re considering what to do in Palermo that allows you to taste the best of the city, just try any of its delectable street foods. Once you’ve munched through the pizza slices and pastries, there are plenty of new delights that you might not have tasted before, from traditional snacks to the likes of charcoal-roast peppers and chopped boiled octopus. Swing by a friggitoria (deep-fry takeaway) for arancini (savoury rice balls) and crocche (potato croquettes stuffed with anchovy and cheese). While there are loads of decent food markets to choose from, one of the best has to be Ballaro market, where you can take a seat between the stalls and wash your grub down with a pint of beer.
Best for: Street food, from the traditional to the downright quirky.
While you’re there: Take a guided street food tour.
Housed in the restored neoclassical 18th-century Palazzo Riso, the Sicily Museum of Contemporary Arts displays a permanent exhibition focusing on Sicilian art from the 1950s onwards, while the range of temporary exhibitions are impressive. Even if you’re not that fussed about the museum, the palazzo itself is a great place to escape the bustle of the city – just head to the bar, courtyard or gift shop to find out for yourself.
Best for: Contemporary art in a historical building.
While you’re there: Nearby is San Giuseppe dei Teatini.
It doesn’t really look as if much has changed in the Albergheria district for the past few hundred years. Why not dive into the heart of the quarter, with its network of tiny streets, tucked away from the main roads, its tall, leaning buildings interspersed with grand churches? At the southern end of the piazza is the striking Santa Maria del Carmine church, which as rundown as it may appear on the outside, has a beautiful tiled dome and grandiose, stunning interior. This landmark, admit the commotion of the market stalls and cluttered alleyways, makes it quite a striking sight. At Albergheria’s centre is Ballarao, home to one of the city’s liveliest street markets, with a daily fruit and veg market taking centre stage at Piazza Ballaro.
Best for: The heart of the action.
While you’re there: Make the most of the food markets – pane e panelle (Sicilian chickpea fritters), anyone?
Everyone say ‘aww’ to one of the cutest things to do in Palermo. The Marionette Museum (Museo delle Marionette) details one of Sicily’s traditional entertainments, with a collection of puppets and painted scenery. While there are puppets from all over the world – from Britain to Rajasthan – the Sicilian puppets steal the show, donned in their silver armour and colourfully plumed helmets. As you might expect, the museum puts on a puppet show for its larger audience, usually based around French and Sicilian histories tackling battles, betrayal and heroic exploits.
Best for:
While you’re there: Buy your own puppet souvenir in one of the shops along Via Vittorio Emanuele.
The Gallery of Modern Arts (GAM) features over 200 paintings and sculptures in its permanent collection, dating between the early 19th to mid-20th centuries. The works are displayed by various themes, such as portraits, nudes, landscapes and so on, so you won’t feel lost in the sea of works. The building was the former Franciscan Convento di Sant’Anna but today you can explore its small courtyards, pleasant cafe and wide-ranging bookshop.
Best for: Sicilian and prestigious works of art.
While you’re there: The courtyard is perfect for an aperitif or two.
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