Luzern holidays

How to reach Lucerne

• Flight time: There are no direct flights to Lucerne. Flights to Zurich, the closest airport, from London and other major UK airports typically take around 1 hour 30 minutes to 2 hours.

• Transfer time: From Zurich Airport, the most convenient way to reach Lucerne is by train, with direct trains taking just under an hour.

• Price: A standard train ticket from Zurich Airport to Lucerne costs approximately CHF 30. A taxi or private transfer will cost between CHF 180 and CHF 250.

Best time to visit Lucerne

This will depend on what you want to do during your Lucerne holidays; some events are seasonal, and the weather may also play a part in your decision.

• April to May: Spring brings mild weather, with temperatures between 10–18°C; rainfall is moderate, ranging from 60–100mm, and you can expect around 6–8 hours of sunshine per day. This is the ideal time to explore the lake and the town’s museums before the summer crowds pitch up.

• June to August: During Lucerne’s high season, the town takes on a life of its own with festivals galore. Average temperatures are around 18–24°C, with plenty of sunshine, making dining out at one of the many lakeside restaurants a real pleasure.

• September to November: Temperatures cool from around 22°C in September to 10°C by November, with 5–8 hours of sunshine daily. Rainfall is moderate, averaging between 80mm and 100mm per month. September is a great time to strike out into the surrounding mountains.

• December to March: Temperatures range from 1°C to 8°C, and there are 4–6 hours of sunshine per day. Rainfall is relatively low, around 50–80mm per month, with snow likely in the surrounding mountains, while Lucerne itself is often dusted with snow. February’s huge Carnival celebrations see the town’s population multiply severalfold.

Practical information

• Spoken languages: The official language in Lucerne is German, but English is widely understood.

• Local habits and customs: The Swiss are known for their punctuality and politeness, so being on time and respectful of local manners will go a long way. It’s not customary to tip; if you’re impressed by the service, round up your bill to the nearest franc.

• Health and safety: Lucerne is as safe as any Swiss city. Tap water is safe to drink, and medical care is excellent. Carrying a European Health Insurance Card (EHIC) is recommended for medical treatment.

• Currency: Switzerland uses the Swiss Franc (CHF). Credit cards are widely accepted, and ATMs are plentiful.

• Getting around: The city is very walkable; in any case, Lucerne has an efficient public transport system, including buses, trains and boats. A single bus or train ticket costs around CHF 4 for a short journey within the city.

• Electricity and plug types: Switzerland uses Type J plugs, with a standard voltage of 230V. UK travellers will need an adaptor.

• Time zone: Switzerland operates on Central European Time (CET), which is 1 hour ahead of GMT.

• Required travel documentation: UK travellers do not need a visa for stays up to 90 days. You’ll just need your passport.

Best things to do in Lucerne

Boasting invigorating mountain views, lake cruises and a picturesque old quarter, Lucerne has long been one of Europe’s most popular towns for visitors. The city’s large population of young people and the busy schedule of festivals provide some cosmopolitan buzz.

Viewpoints and panoramas

• Town Walls and Towers: The Nölliturm fortified gate marks the southwestern extent of a lengthy stretch of the surviving 14th-century town walls, the Musegg, dotted with nine towers - with terrific views all along.

• The KKL: Jean Nouvel’s landmark architecture in glass and steel is a revelation. Reflecting pools all around draw the lake into the building, as an immense cantilevered roof floats high above. The atmosphere of the place changes according to the weather conditions: standing on the lakeside apron during a storm – exposed yet protected by the roof – is quite an experience.

The best districts

• Old Town (Altstadt): Atmospheric cluster of medieval houses, with Mühlenplatz, Weinmarkt, Hirschenplatz and Kornmarkt forming a compact ensemble of cobbled, fountained squares ringed by colourful facades.

Museums

• Sammlung Rosengart: This elegant gallery of modern art in central Lucerne boasts a phenomenal collection of works by Picasso and Klee.

• Kunstmuseum: Marvellous collection including numerous works by Swiss artists of the 19th and 20th centuries, alongside some late 20th-century international pieces. The displays are excellent, but it is the breathtaking architecture that makes it always worth visiting.

• The Richard Wagner Museum: In the villa that was Richard Wagner’s home from 1866 to 1872, wander through the rooms laid out with Wagneriana of all kinds – letters, pictures, scores, instruments and even his death mask – with Wagner compositions playing in the background.

Historical monuments

• The Kapellbrücke: The oldest road bridge in Europe, topped by its distinctive Wasserturm (formerly a lighthouse, a prison, a treasury and today serving as a meeting house), has come to stand as the symbol of the city.

• The Spreuerbrücke: Even more atmospheric than the Kapellbrücke, thanks to its macabre “Dance of Death” roof panels; images show a grinning skeleton leading kings, gallant princes, lawmen, nuns, merchants, prostitutes, peasants and maidens alike to their inevitable fate.

• Löwendenkmal: The terribly sad Lion Monument has the wounded beast – dubbed “the Dying Lion of Lucerne” – draped over his shield, with a broken spear sticking out of his flank. It was hewn out of a cliff face in 1821 to commemorate the 700 Swiss mercenaries killed in Paris in 1792.

Day trips in the area

• Bern: Surrounded on three sides by the River Aare, Switzerland’s uniquely attractive capital city has a medieval street plan that has survived unchanged for five centuries.

• Zurich: Pay a visit to Switzerland’s largest city for world-class galleries and museums – but also for fine dining, atmospheric cafés, beer gardens and nightlife.

Activities for families in Lucerne

Families could easily spend a week in Lucerne and not tire of things to do, not least thanks to a clutch of superb museums, and all kinds of potential outings on the lake and into the mountains by railway.

• Boat trips: At least one trip out on the waters of Lake Lucerne is a must to appreciate the subtly changing scene of every corner of the many-fingered lake. The lake is crossed year-round by the fine old boats of the SGV; all boats – including their five paddle steamers – depart from the quays directly outside Lucerne’s station.

• Interactive museums: The vast Verkehrshaus (Transport Museum) is devoted to Swiss engineering and could keep you, and particularly any transport-obsessed kids, amused all day. There are plenty of “hands-on” activities: driver simulators in the train section, flight ones in the aeroplane section and even an indoor ski jump in aviation. Also on site is a planetarium and the Swiss Chocolate Adventure ride, which takes you through an immersive history of chocolate.

• Rack railways: Boats and local trains run from Lucerne to Alpnachstad, from where the steepest rack railway in the world runs at a gradient touching 48 percent directly to the top of the mountain - it’s an awesome family day out.

Free things to do in Lucerne

Lucerne’s reputation for being an expensive destination is justified, but the town has no shortage of activities that can be done without having to spend a penny.

• Lake swimming: Spend any time near Lake Lucerne in summer, and you may just be tempted to join the locals in going for a swim. Among the many swimming spots around the lake, these include the large public lido next to the Verkehrshaus, with a sandy beach, lawns and beach volleyball; and Ufschötti, a free, open swimming spot with a park and sandy area.

• Free events: Lucerne’s infamously raucous six-day all-in carnival is the biggest and best in Switzerland, and a genuinely participatory event; celebrations are focused around three “official” carnival days.

• Markets: Every Tuesday and Saturday morning, large food markets spill over both banks of the Reuss and under the arcades, with a supplementary fish market every Friday and a relaxed Saturday morning food market on Helvetiaplatz. There’s a flea market every Saturday on the south bank and a monthly crafts market on Weinmarkt.

Nature and outdoor activities in Lucerne

Whether you’re into hiking, skiing or watersports, holidays to Lucerne are packed with the potential for outdoor activities.

• Hiking: With three peaks to pick from – including mighty Titlis – the end-of-the-road village of Engelberg is a great destination for hiking. Other popular routes include hikes up Mount Pilatus and Mount Rigi, both of which offer superlative views of the city.

• Skiing and snowboarding: Lucerne is the gateway to some of Switzerland’s best ski resorts, including Mount Titlis and Mount Pilatus, both of which are easily accessible by train or cable car.

Local dishes in Lucerne

Local specialities to keep an eye out for are led by the celebrated Luzerner Kügelipastete, but otherwise, fish is the thing, in endless varieties.

Some typical dishes

• Luzerner Chügelipastete: This stomach-lining dish is a glorified vol-au-vent, a large puff-pastry shell filled with a super-rich concoction of diced veal and mushrooms in a creamy sauce.

• Fondue: A communal pot of melted cheese served with bread cubes for dipping, the classic style is a moitiémoitié (“half-and-half”), using either Gruyère and Vacherin Fribourgeois, or Gruyère and Emmental.

Meat dishes

• Saucisson Vaudois: This pork and beef Vaud sausage is famous for its delicately smoked flavour, served boiled or steamed alongside papet vaudois, a purée of potatoes and leeks.

Fish and seafood dishes

• Felchen: A whitefish native to Lake Lucerne served grilled or pan-fried with potatoes and piles of seasonal vegetables.

• Egli: Another fish from Lake Lucerne, egli (or perch) is more often than not fried and served with butter and a squeeze of lemon.

Sweets and desserts

• Luzerner Lebkuchen: Spiced gingerbread cake served with whipped cream or enjoyed on its own with a cup of coffee.

• Nidletäfeli: Swiss fudge made from cream, butter and sugar, this will satisfy all your sweet-toothed fantasies.

Local drinks

• Swiss wine: Switzerland’s wine industry is modest, but a couple of regions produce some impressive vintages, most notably Lavaux.

• Kafi Luz: The right way to make one is to put a five-franc coin in a vase-shaped glass, pour hot coffee in until you can’t see the coin, then add Schnapps until the coin becomes visible again. Stir in two large spoons of sugar, and you have the perfect farmers’ pick-me-up.