The locals' guide to...Florence
There are only two Florences worth knowing: the girl from The Magic Roundabout and this, the jewel in Tuscany's crown that feels more like a massive open air museum than a city... And for more information you can purchase a Lonely Planet Italy guide.
How do I get away from large tour groups wearing matching caps?
Spread rumours of plague - or, less drastically, go in winter. If you're there when the sun is shining go early to the Accademia and the Uffizi then head south of the Ponte Vecchio for a little more calm. There are beautiful churches like Santa Maria Del Carmine and the welcoming green of the Boboli Gardens behind the Palazzo Pitti where public displays of affection are compulsory.
Where do the locals party?
Whenever more than one Italian is gathered there'll be a party. Florence is packed with clubs, such as Dolce Vita and Zoe where locals dance with Brits just off a cheap flight and American students from luxury Florence hotels. But Florentines keep something back for the ‘Calcio Storico' (historical soccer) in June - that's when an ancient form of football is played in the Piazza Santa Croce. It's like a medieval fair and the rules seem to be something to do with ripping shirts open and hugging a lot.
Restaurants without an 'all-you-can-eat tourist buffet'?
Slip away from the areas around the Duomo and Piazza della Signoria to the Santo Spirito district across the Arno river. There are loads of good little places and few better than Casalinga on Via de Michelozzi. It means housewife and you get the meals mama would make.
The locals' absolutely secret number one tip :
Many cafés, like Italy in general, have overly-complicated systems. Here's how to look like you're in the know. Check out what you want at the counter, go to the till, tell them, pay and take the slip of paper back to the counter to get your food. Simple but will save much hand-waving.
A quick guide to where the locals hang out
The shops: Have a mooch around the San Lorenzo market off Piazza Madonna degli Aldobrandini. It's an open air Aladdin's cave and one of the best places in the world to buy handmade gloves from an ancient family business.
The coffee: Are you kidding, it's as good as Milan. Find a bar near your hotel in Florence and make friends with the barista. Remember, Italians gulp their java standing at the counter.
The trip: Get a bus out of the heat of Florence to the relatively cool and very beautiful Fiesole, in the hills overlooking the Arno Valley.
The place for people watching: The Piazza della Signoria - where Helena Bonham Carter faints in the film A Room with a View. The best bit is watching people's faces when they get their bill for two coffees!
The view: The panorama from the Piazzale Michelangelo, south of the Arno in the San Miniato area, is simply the best. Accept no others.
The cocktail: No Florence holiday would be complete without a trip to Harry's Bar, the nearly as smart and just-as-cool cousin of the famous one in Venice.
The breakfast: Head to the food stalls of the Mercato Centrale near San Lorenzo. On the run, grab a dolce con crema - a sort of croissant with custard in the middle.
The museum: The Bargello in Via de Proconsolo is fantastic and deserted compared to the Uffizi.
Why not try? Florence segway tour
Details:
Accademia Gallery, Via Ricasoli 60, +39 055 2388609, www.polomuseale.firenze.it; Uffizi Gallery, Piazzale degli Uffizi 6, +39 055 2388651, www.polomuseale.firenze.it; Boboli Gardens, Piazza Pitti 1, +39 055 2388786, www.polomuseale.firenze.it; Dolce Vita, Piazza del Carmine, +39 055 284595, www.dolcevitaflorence.com; Zoe, Via dè Renai 13/r, +39 055 243111; Calcio Storico, Piazza Santa Croce, +39 055 2616050, www.globeit.it/caf; La Casalinga, Via de' Michelozzi 9r, +39 055 218624; San Lorenzo Market, Piazza San Lorenzo and Via dell'Ariento; Harry's Bar, Lungarno A. Vespucci 22/r, +39 055 2396700, www.harrysbarfirenze.it; Central Market of San Lorenzo, Piazza del Mercato Centrale and Via dell'Ariento; Bargello National Museum, Via del Proconsolo 4, +39 055 2388606, www.polomuseale.firenze.it; Hotel Kursaal Ausonia, Via Nazionale 24 (nero);
Can I drink the water?
The eight essential questions you'll need answering
Which local animal is likely to hospitalise me?
Be careful of the local wasps. The Italian for wasp is 'vespa' and scooters named for their whining sound are deadly in narrow side streets.
Which native liquor will make me think I am attractive?
It's hard to look as good as the Italians, but try ordering a caffè corretto - an espresso with a shot of Grappa.
How can I avoid a beating by the local hard nuts?
Don't wear a Siena football shirt as there's a bit of rivalry. When local team Fiorentina were relegated in 2002, Siena fans held a mass picnic to celebrate. Ooh, a mass picnic. Scary.
Will I get lost?
Possibly down one of the many holes that pit the roads. Keep the dome of the cathedral - the Duomo - or the tower of the Palazzo Vecchio as landmarks to avoid excessive wandering on your Florence break.
Will I find myself?
You may be inspired to dust off your crayons and plasticine after contemplating the genius of the Italian Renaissance.
Should I take an umbrella?
It rains a lot in November. But Florence is on the muggy side, so you can get soaked in summer too, when it's a welcome relief.
What should I order in a restaurant to impress the locals?
Tripe, wild boar and Bollito Misto - a stew of mixed meats including tongue - is a local speciality and you'll also get a cheery 'bene' by ordering one.
Can I drink the water?
Yes, in fact it is ultra-safe because it is highly chlorinated. But you'll need extra strong conditioner if you wash your hair.
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