The locals' guide to...Edinburgh
Fans of deep-fried Mars Bars know that Edinburgh can't be beaten, but lovers of non-bonkers food can also enjoy this city of style, culture and an all-consuming festival... And for more information you can purchase a Lonely Planet Edinburgh encounter guide
How do I get away from large tour groups wearing matching caps?
If being overrun by groups of people following an umbrella-holding tour guide isn't your idea of fun on an Edinburgh short break, then you'll need to hit the hotspots of Edinburgh Castle, the Royal Mile and Holyrood early in the day to beat the rush. The Old Town still has heaps of other stuff to explore throughout the day without getting swamped, so don't fret if you sleep in. Also worth a nose is New Town, where trendy George Street heads out to Stockbridge and the regenerated port of Leith. For a tour of a different kind, follow the Water of Leith, the river that runs through Edinburgh.
Where do the locals party?
Most of the partying takes place in the Grassmarket area of the Old Town or on George Street. If your drinking session is likely to end in a re-enactment of the film Braveheart, then you can't go far wrong with the Grassmarket. Those after a more sophisticated evening should head to George Street with its cool bars like Bar 38 and Candy Bar. Also on the radar for those in the know are Leith and Stockbridge for a proper night out.
Restaurants without an 'all-you-can-eat tourist buffet'?
Despite the rumours, not everything you eat in Scotland has been deep fried. There's plenty of excellent food on offer in Edinburgh, with popular everyday haunts including Monster Mash, off George Street, and Susie's Diner in the Old Town. Once again the young and clued up locals can be found down by The Shore in Leith enjoying quality cuisine at affordable prices. And if you fancy a blow out, give Michelin-starred Restaurant Martin Wishart a whirl.
The locals' absolutely secret number one tip :
Jump on a bicycle with the Spokes Cycle Map of Edinburgh in your pocket and explore the nooks and crannies of this fabulous city on two wheels.
A quick guide to where the locals hang out
The breakfast: For the total breakfast experience, you can't go far wrong with Circle Café or Café Renroc, both in New Town.
The flicks: The Filmhouse, The Cameo and the Dominion Cinema are where the city's discerning film enthusiasts flock.
The shops : George Street for designer labels, Stockbridge for charity shops and the Grassmarket for vintage style.
The view: With so many hills in Edinburgh there are many a great view to be had, but Arthur's Seat and Calton Hill are the pick of the bunch.
The coffee: If you need a caffeine kick on your Edinburgh city break do as the locals do and head to Urban Angel in New Town.
The museum: For cultural enrichment, those in the know go to the Dean Gallery and the Scottish Gallery of Modern Art.
The place for people watching: The Grassmarket, Royal Mile and George Street are the places to gawp, especially during August when the world famous Edinburgh Festival comes to town.
The clubs: For a truly glammed-up experience with beautiful people head to the Voodoo Rooms in New Town.
The place to be seen: If you can't spot any young, hip and trendy people on your Edinburgh holiday, it's because they're all at Tigerlily in New Town.
Why not try? Edinburgh underground night walking tour
Details:
Bar 38, 126-128 George Street, +44 (0)131 2206180; Candy Bar, 113-115 George Street, +44 (0)131 2259179, www.candybaredinburgh.com; Monster Mash, 4a Forrest Road, +44 (0)131 2257069, www.monstermashcafe.co.uk; Susie's Wholefood Diner, 51-53 West Nicolson Street, +44 (0)131 6678729; Restaurant Martin Wishart, 54 The Shore, Leith, +44 (0)131 5533557, www.martin-wishart.co.uk; Circle Café & Bakery, 1 Brandon Terrace, +44 (0)131 6244666; Café Renroc, 91 Montgomery Street, +44 (0)131 5560432, www.renroc.co.uk; The Filmhouse, 88 Lothian Road, +44 (0)131 2282688, www.filmhousecinema.com; Cameo Picturehouse, 38 Home Street, +44 (0)131 2282800, www.picturehouses.co.uk; Dominion Cinema, 18 Newbattle Terrace, +44 (0)131 4474771, www.dominioncinemas.net; Urban Angel, 121 Hanover Street, +44 (0)131 2256215, www.urban-angel.co.uk; Dean Gallery, 73 Belford Road, +44 (0)131 6246200, www.nationalgalleries.org; Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art, 75 Belford Road, +44 (0)131 6246200, www.nationalgalleries.org; The Voodoo Rooms, 19a West Register Street, +44 (0)131 5567060, www.thevoodoorooms.com; Tigerlily, 125 George Street, +44 (0)131 2255005, www.tigerlilyedinburgh.co.uk; Ten Hill Place Hotel, 10 Hill Place;
Can I drink the water?
The eight essential questions you'll need answering
Which local animal is likely to hospitalise me?
The midge. You won't die of the bites, but on a bad day they'll drive you crazy enough to get you admitted into the nearest lunatic asylum.
Which native liquor will make me think I am attractive?
Being Scotland it has to be single malt whisky. Give the local drop, Glenkinchie, a whirl. Or there's always Hendrick's, a Scottish gin.
How can I avoid a beating by the local hard nuts?
The key to steering clear of any rogue elements is to give Lothian Road a wide berth late at night and generally to avoid sounding too English after a international rugby match.
Will I get lost?
No - travel in Edinburgh is easy. It's fun exploring the alleyways in Old Town - you never know what's round the corner.
Will I find myself?
You might well find the performer in you if you visit during the festival as anything goes and the more outlandish, the better. Book your Edinburgh hotel early though.
Should I take an umbrella?
Yes. Edinburgh gets more than its fair share of rain and given how windy it gets, you'll need a firm grip too.
What should I order in a restaurant to impress the locals?
No one's going to think you're big or clever just because you ordered haggis. Plumping for Cullen Skink, a fish soup, is way cooler.
Can I drink the water?
Yes, and swim in it too. It's fabulous stuff and comes straight off the hills.
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