Lerwick holidays

How to reach Lerwick

• Flight time: Flights to Lerwick involve first travelling to one of the larger cities in Scotland. Flights to Edinburgh, flights to Aberdeen or flights to Glasgow from London plus a short flight to Lerwick take between 3 and 4 hours, depending on layovers.

• Transfer time: From Sumburgh Airport, 40km south of Lerwick, an hourly bus makes the journey to Lerwick, taking roughly 30-40 minutes. Taxis are available at the airport.

• Price: The airport bus costs around £2.90, while a taxi will cost between £30 to £40.

Best time to visit Lerwick

Think about what you want to do during your Lerwick holidays. While the weather is more pleasant during the spring and summer, winter has it’s own attractions.

• March to April: Spring sees longer days returning, with average temperatures between 5°C to 10°C. The wind-chill factor is not to be taken lightly, and there’s often a dampness in the air, even when it’s not actually raining. There are some good spells of dry, sunny weather, albeit often bringing in sea mist.

• May to August: It’s the “simmer dim”, the twilight which lingers through the small hours at this latitude, which makes Shetland summers so memorable. Average temperatures range from 10°C to 15°C, with around 8–10 hours of sunshine. Rain is less frequent, though by no means uncommon.

• September to November: The start of autumn brings cooler temperatures and the start of much shorter days. Expect average temperatures from 7°C to 12°C and more frequent showers.

• December to February: This time of year offers a very different experience of Shetland. Days are very short, temperatures average around 3°C to 7°C, and gales are routine. It’s also the season for Shetland’s most celebrated festival, the magical Up Helly Aa Fire Festival.

Practical information

• Spoken languages: English is the main language spoken, though you might hear Shetlandic, a dialect with Old Norse influences, especially among older locals.

• Local habits and customs: Life in Lerwick and across the Shetland Isles is quite laid-back. People are friendly, and the community is proud of its heritage, which is showcased in events like Up Helly Aa. Respecting local customs is always appreciated.

• Currency: The UK Pound (£) is used, and ATMs are readily available in town. Most places accept credit and debit cards, including contactless payments.

• Getting around: Lerwick is easy to navigate on foot, but if you’re venturing further, buses and taxis are reliable options. Standard bus fares within Lerwick start from £2. There’s also the possibility to rent a car if you’re planning to explore more of Shetland.

• Time zone: Lerwick operates on Greenwich Mean Time (GMT) and observes British Summer Time (BST) during daylight-saving months.

Best things to do in Lerwick

The focus of Shetland’s commercial life, the pretty harbour town of Lerwick is home to a third of the islands’ total population. Its large houses and grand public buildings established during the Victorian period still dominate, but it’s the fishing industry that really makes this place what it is.

Viewpoints and panoramas

• The Knab: Head to this coastal viewpoint for stunning vistas over the town and surrounding islands. It’s a short walk from the centre and offers panoramic views that are especially beautiful at sunset.

The best districts

• Commercial Street: Lerwick’s attractive shopping hub, this narrow, winding, flagstone-clad avenue is a delight to explore.

• Harbourfront: Lerwick’s sheltered harbour is busy with ferries, fishing boats and oil-rig supply vessels. In summer, the quayside comes alive with visiting yachts, cruise liners, historic vessels such as the Swan and the occasional tall ship.

Museums

• Shetland Museum: Beautifully designed modern waterside museum with imaginative displays telling the story of Shetland, and a great café too.

• Shetland Textile Museum: Occupying the Böd of Gremista, the birthplace of Arthur Anderson, this sweet little museum puts on special exhibitions on the heritage of the islands’ knitting culture.

Parks and gardens

• Jubilee Flower Park: A lovely green space to relax and unwind, with benches, lots of wide open spaces and beautiful floral displays - it really comes into its own during the summer months.

Historical monuments

• Fort Charlotte: Begun for Charles II in 1665, the fort was attacked and burnt down by the Dutch in August 1673. In the 1780s, it was repaired and named in honour of George III’s queen. Since then, it’s served as a prison and a Royal Navy training centre.

• Clickimin Broch: This well-preserved Iron Age structure offers a peek into Shetland’s ancient past; it’s a fantastic example of Shetland’s historical significance.

• Town Hall: The Victorian new town, on the hill above the harbour, is dominated by this splendid Scottish Baronial monument to civic pride, built by public subscription.

Day trips in the area

• Isle of Noss: Traffic-free island nature reserve where you’re guaranteed to see seals, guillemots, gannets and puffins.

• Mousa Broch: Take a short boat trip to this remote islet, which boasts Scotland’s finest 2000-year-old broch and nesting storm petrels.

• Scalloway: Explore Shetland Mainland’s southernmost lighthouse, and then take in the spectacular view out to Fair Isle from the lighthouse café.

Activities for families in Lerwick

Whether your kids are into history, wildlife or just want to run around, there’s something for everyone on your holidays to Lerwick.

• Boat trips: The replica Viking longship, Dim Riv, takes passengers on regular trips around Bressay Sound, while you could take a trip on the Swan, a restored wooden sailing ship from 1900, which undertakes trips lasting from one to nine days.

• Interactive museums: The Shetland Museum has a number of hands-on exhibits that are perfect for kids to muck around with.

Free things to do in Lerwick

Exploring Lerwick doesn’t have to be expensive. There are plenty of free activities that let you soak up the town’s gentle atmosphere without spending a penny.

• Up Helly Aa festival: On the last Tuesday in January, Lerwick plays host to the unmissable Up Helly Aa, the largest of the fire festivals held in Shetland. Around 900 torch-bearing participants, all male and all in extraordinary costumes, march in procession through town.

• Explore the Town Hall: Provided there are no functions going on, you are free to wander around the building to admire the stained-glass windows in the main hall, which celebrate Shetland’s history, and to climb the castellated central tower that occupies the town’s highest point.

Nature and outdoor activities in Lerwick

Shetland’s rugged landscapes make Lerwick an ideal base for outdoor enthusiasts. From walking the stunning coastal paths to cycling and sea kayaking tours, there’s plenty to explore.

• Cycling: Shetland’s excellent road surfaces and low volume of traffic make cycling a pleasure. Moreover, gradients are mostly gentle, and many sections have a dedicated hard shoulder. One excellent route is that from Lerwick to Bressay and Noss, an easily doable 24km circuit.

• Fishing: Fishing is, unsurprisingly, a popular activity in Shetland, and Lerwick is no exception. Whether you prefer sea angling or casting a line in a quiet loch, local charters offer fishing trips, complete with equipment and guidance.

• Sea Kayaking: Shetland’s extensive and accessible coastline offers endless possibilities for the sea kayaker. Try Shetland Canoe Club or Sea Kayak Shetland. The bonus is that you’ll quite likely get to see some marine life along the way.

• Hiking and coastal walks: The coastline around Lerwick is dotted with scenic paths perfect for gentle hikes. One such is The Knab, from where you’ll find breathtaking views over the North Sea and plenty of wildlife to boot - maybe even Orcas.

Local dishes in Lerwick

One of the highlights of holidays to Lerwick is the chance to savour the flavours of Shetland’s unique cuisine, which inevitably is centred on seafood. Fresh, locally sourced ingredients and traditional recipes come together to offer a delicious culinary experience.

Some typical dishes

• Shetland lamb: Known for its tender, flavourful meat, Shetland lamb is a staple on menus across Lerwick; the lambs here graze on coastal pastures, giving the meat its distinctive taste.

• Reestit mutton soup: A hearty local dish, this soup comprises salted, dried mutton cooked with potatoes, carrots and swedes.

• Bannocks: Traditional Shetland flatbreads, often served with butter and cheese.

Meat dishes

• Scottish beef: Scottish-reared beef is often delicious, especially the Aberdeen Angus breed, though Highland cattle are also rated for their depth of flavour.

• Venison Stew: The meat of the red deer is low in cholesterol and very tasty; it’s served roasted or in casseroles, and is often cooked with juniper and red wine.

Fish and seafood dishes

• Shetland mussels: Freshly harvested from the surrounding waters, these mussels are known for their sweet, tender meat. They’re usually steamed with garlic, white wine and herbs.

• Shetland scallops: Plump and juicy, these scallops are a delight whether pan-fried, grilled or served in a creamy sauce.

• Fish pie: A warming dish featuring a mix of haddock, cod and other white fish, smothered in a layer of creamy mashed potato.

Sweets and desserts

• Clootie dumpling: A rich, fruit-filled steamed pudding that’s a festive treat in Shetland. It’s made with flour, sugar, dried fruits and spices, and traditionally wrapped in a cloth (‘cloot’) for cooking.

• Shetland fudge: Creamy, sweet and melt-in-the-mouth, Shetland fudge is one for the sweet-toothed.

Local drinks

• Shetland Reel gin: Distilled on Unst, the most northerly Shetland island, this delicious craft gin is infused with dozens of local botanicals.

• Scotch whisky: No visit to Lerwick would be complete without sampling some Scotch. Shetland may not have many distilleries, but one excellent one is the Lerwick Distillery, whose excellent selection of single malts you’ll find in the town’s many convivial pubs and bars.