The locals' guide to...Stockholm
Stockholm has more to offer than pickled herring, Abba and Ikea. Here's the insiders' guide as to what the Swedish capital's got in its locker... And for more information you can purchase a Lonely Planet Istanbul city guide or Istanbul encounter guide
How do I get away from large tour groups wearing matching caps?
It's funny, no one with a functioning brain would wear a bum bag to work or to the pub, but once people arrive on a Stockholm break they just can't wait to unpack their favourite travel accessory, clip it snugly into place and then head for Gamla Stan - the old town. Don't let this put you off wandering around the cobbled streets and squares here, but considering the city and archipelago consists of around 24,000 islands, escaping the hordes is easy. Buy a Batluffarkort (boat pass) from a tourist office and set sail for the scenic island of Vaxholm which boasts a picture-perfect harbour and dramatic 16th century fortress.
Where do the locals party?
Sink a drink on the open-air terrace at The Mosebacke Etablissement above Gamla Stan, where there's usually live music. Or, if your wallet is so full of notes it's almost too heavy to carry, make your way to nearby haunts The Sturecompagniet and Berns. Both are funky, exclusive and expert at unburdening you of cash. For bars serving an altogether more affordable beverage, head to the south of the city. The Lady Patricia is a party boat docked in Södermalm with a number of bars on board. It's open until 5am on Fridays and Saturdays and has themed nights throughout the year.
Restaurants without an 'all-you-can-eat tourist buffet'?
Going on a Stockholm holiday and not dining on Smörgåsbord is like going to Brick Lane and having steak and kidney pie. For some of the finest go to The Veranda inside the Grand Hotel, but don't fill yourself up too soon as there are about six courses to wade through. Pelikan in Södermalm offers home-made Swedish classics like butter, cheese and herring with Swedish Snaps. For a cheaper local alternative, try a Tunnbröd, Sweden's answer to the burrito. It's a flatbread served with hot-dog and mashed potatoes, and you can buy them from most street vendors in Gamla Stan.
The locals' absolutely secret number one tip :
Stockholm is about as hectic as a game of statues at an old people's home, but if you really do need to get away from the bustle of the city centre, take a boat trip to nearby Grinda - a lovely sedate island.
A quick guide to where the locals hang out
The view: Grab a drink at the trendy Hotel J, sit out on the lawn and check out the view over the water to the Royal Park at Djurgården.
The trip: Hop on a boat and head to the island of Sandhamn, which hosts the Round Gotland boat race in July.
The water: Get active on your short break to Stockholm - hire a kayak from Dalaro Kajak and use paddle power to see the Archipelago.
The beach : Head down to the beach at Langholmen - it's a nice spot for a swim. As long as it's not winter of course.
The walk : Take a stroll around the Djurgården Royal Park. Catch the ferry from Gamla Stan or the 47/69 buses from Central Station.
The museum: It's worth checking out the Vasa Museum to see the world's only surviving 17th-century ship. Go early to avoid the crowds.
The shops : Head to NK. It's a massive department store with its own food hall.
The festival : In June, there are a of number live concerts at the Skansen open-air museum in Djurgården to celebrate midsummer.
Why not try? Stockholm old town horse and carriage ride
Details:
Mosebacke Etablissement, Mosebacke torg 3, +46 (0)8 55609890, www.mosebacke.se; Sturecompagniet, Sturegatan 4, +46 (0)8 54507601, www.sturecompagniet.se; Berns Salonger, Berzelii Park, +46 (0)8 56632222, www.berns.se; Lady Patricia AB, Stadsgårdskajen 152, +46 (0)8 7430570, www.patricia.st; The Veranda at Grand Hotel, S. Blasieholmshamnen 8, +46 (0)8 6793586, www.grandhotel.se; Pelikan, Blekingegatan 40, +46 (0)8 55609090, www.pelikan.se; Hotel J, Ellensviksvägen 1, Nacka Strand, +46 (0)8 6013000, www.hotelj.com; Round Gotland boat race, Sandhamn, www.gotlandrunt.se; Dalaro Kajak, Askfatshamnen Dalarö, +46 (0)8 50150180, www.dalarokajak.se; Vasamuseet, Galärvarvsvägen 14, +46 (0)8 51954800, www.vasamuseet.se; NK Stockholm, Hamngatan 18-20, www.nk.se; Skansen Open-Air Museum, Djurgården, +46 (0)8 4428000, www.skansen.se; Birger Jarl Hotel, Tulegatan 8;
Can I drink the water?
The eight essential questions you'll need answering
Which local animal is likely to hospitalise me?
Be careful if you head out of the city in a car - elks (gigantic moose) think they are hard enough to take on speeding vehicles. They aren't.
Which native liquor will make me think I am attractive?
Snaps. Not a rubbish card game, but rather the Scandinavian form of schnapps. The tradition is to sing a song while downing a whole load of the stuff, in between stuffing yourself with crayfish.
How can I avoid a beating by the local hard nuts?
Steer clear of statements such as, "Swedish, Danish, Norwegian... it's all the same to me." Swedes are proud of their national identity.
Will I get lost?
There's plenty of ways to get around and it's fairly simple - buses, boats, metro, walking. If you do find you've misplaced your Stockholm hotel, you can always ask someone - Swedes speak better English than English people.
Will I find myself?
There are 24,000 islands in Stockholm's archipelago and some of them are uninhabited. If you want to find yourself, head to one of those, sit cross-legged and chant.
Should I take an umbrella?
It's not a bad idea, especially as July and August are the wettest months.
What should I order in a restaurant to impress the locals?
The Swedes are rather partial to pickled herring, or indeed any sort of cold fish dish.
Can I drink the water?
Yes, and there's no shortage of the stuff around the place.
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