Best for: Classic Istanbul attractions
While you’re there: Cheers Lighthouse is a perfect choice for accommodation. Part of a new wave of hostel accommodation in the city, it provides hotel-like facilities without losing the communal hostel feel.
Draped across the hilltop above Galata is Beyoğlu, the frenetic entertainment quarter of the metropolis. Heart of the action is one-and-a-half-kilometre-long İstiklal Caddesi (Independence Street), running from the upper Tünel station north to bland but impressively vast Taksim Square. From the seventeenth century onwards this became the European quarter of the city, home to the palatial residences of foreign merchants, ambassadors and members of the city’s Greek and Armenian communities. Typically late nineteenth-century Neoclassical, Art Nouveau and Secessionist-style apartment blocks line the streets, punctuated by grand consular buildings, churches and period arcades. Beneath their grand facades, Istanbulites and foreign visitors shop, visit a gallery, take in a film, head up to a rooftop bar to watch the sun sink over the old city across the water and while away the night at a trendy club or live music venue. There are plenty of budget hotels in the area, and five-star spots if you’re looking to splash out!
Best for: Evening entertainment
While you’re there: For live music head to Babylon. Acts include everything from world music bands to Turkish fusion.
Superbly located on the first of the old city’s seven hills, right at the snout of the peninsula pointing up the continent-dividing Bosphorus strait, the Topkapı Palace was the nerve centre of the powerful Ottoman Empire. This sprawling, walled compound encompasses not only the courtyards and pavilions of the palace itself but also Istanbul’s excellent Archeology Museum, an important Byzantine church and Gülhane Park, the only major green and open space in the congested old city. Following the busy tramline downhill to the northwest, you come to the more workaday business district of Sirkeci, best known to visitors for its late nineteenth-century station, once the easternmost terminus of the famous Orient Express. Beyond it, fronting the ferry-filled waters of the Golden Horn, is mega-bustling Eminönü, with its fragrant, Ottoman-era Spice Bazaar. Lots of hotels in the area offer roof terraces, such as Neorion and Sirkeci Mansion so you soak up glorious views of the Topkapı Palace and beyond.
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