5 must-sees in El Raval

On your holidays to Barcelona, you can not miss El Raval. This dynamic neighbourhood is experiencing gentrification, with new trendy housing emerging. Make no mistake, though, this area is on the edgier side of the urban experience and has always formed a world apart from the nobler. Traditionally a redlight area, and once notorious for its sleazy Barri Xinès (China Town), it still has some very seedy corners (particularly south of Carrer de Sant Pau).

Let’s not beat about the bush: El Raval isn’t the most beautiful or relaxed place to be in Barcelona. Despite having been cleaned up a lot over the years, it’s resolutely edgy and you need to keep your wits about you, especially at night. But the payoff is that this barri is full of creativity and boasts a more unvarnished coolness than in many other city centre areas. Seek out independent boutiques and weird bars on palm-lined Rambla del Raval, a pedestrianised thoroughfare where you can people-watch to your heart’s content from a pavement café table. Old housing was demolished to make way for the developments here, and new blocks and a towering five-star hotel are all part of the urban regeneration process that is attracting a new, bohemian crowd.

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Museu d’Art Contemporani de Barcelona

From La Rambla, take Carrer del Carme, then turn right up Carrer dels Àngels to reach the most conspicuous symbol of this neighbourhood’s ongoing transformation: Richard Meier’s Museu d’Art Contemporani de Barcelona (MACBA), which is worth visiting for its architecture and the buzz in its square, where skateboarders, art-lovers and a full range of local residents all congregate. It has some fine abstract works and good temporary exhibitions.

Centre de Cultura Contemporània de Barcelona

Next door is the ever-stimulating Centre de Cultura Contemporània de Barcelona (CCCB), which is a striking renovation of an old charitable house, the Casa de Caritat. In this exciting space, dance, music, film and other activities explore the urban experience. 


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Antic Hospital de la Santa Creu

Retrace your steps to Carrer del Carme and the Gothic complex of the Antic Hospital de la Santa Creu (Hospital of the Holy Cross), a hospital and refuge for pilgrims for a thousand years. Gaudí died here in 1926. The courtyard is restful, with benches under orange trees that are either ripe with fruit or fragrant with blossom. The Escola Massana Art School, the National Library of Catalonia, and the Institute for Catalan Studies are all housed here.

Check out Rieva Baixa for vintage shops, a real treasure trove.

Sant Pau del Camp

Around the corner is Sant Pau del Camp, a Romanesque gem of a church. The simplicity of its 12th-century lines is an agreeable change from the extravagance of Barcelona’s modernisme and the intricacies of Gothic architecture. It is believed to be the oldest church in the city. The lovely little cloister has curious, Arab-style arches.

Street art

In a city known for its classic artistic treasures, there is also something edgier to seek out – street art. Parts of Barcelona are well-known for their imaginative tagging – check out the Three Chimneys urban park in El Poble Sec, purpose-built for graffiti. Artists can work freely here without fear of fines. Or check out the tribute to Miró at the corner of Carrer Sant Pau and Carrer de la Riereta here in El Raval. Back in the Barri Gòtic, the city’s street artists continue to pump energy into these old streets, making the most of the atmospheric backdrops to frame their works. 

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