Landmarks
On Phi-Phi Don it's a steep climb to the Phi-Phi Viewpoint but definitely worth the effort. Off the road that heads east in the direction of Ao Lo Dalam you simply follow the signs, and after a 300m hike up narrow winding pathways and steep steps you will attain one of Thailand's great vistas. Below you the marine park stretches out in endless vivid blending shades of blue and green.
The Viking Cave on Phi Phi Leh, which has nothing at all to do with Vikings, is actually a major centre for the harvesting of swiftlet nests, which are vital for the coveted birds' nest soup. A huge bamboo scaffold construction soars to the cave's distant roof and nimble collectors with steady nerves clamber up to collect their prize. On returning to firm ground, they pray and leave offerings of tobacco, incense and alcohol for the cavern spirits. Passing Chinese fishermen left graffiti in the cave centuries ago, and this is where the misleading name comes from.
Restaurants
From Phi-Phi Don hotels you can choose from a rich variety of local and international cuisine. Places such as Papaya Restaurant offer authentic and delicious Thai food that's perennially popular. At the Garlic Restaurant you can select from an ice raft of fresh fish catches in the evening. Establishments such as Ciao Bella and Cosmic serve really good pizzas and pasta too, alongside top seafood and of course Thai specials.
Beaches
Some of the best-known beaches here are understandably very popular, especially in the wake of ‘The Beach' movie. You can, with a little knowledge escape to the idyllic, less trodden stretches of sand.
From the busy Ao Lo Dalam, rent a Kayak and paddle out to Monkey Beach, hidden behind one of the numerous outcrops. It is completely undeveloped and utterly beautiful: well worth the fairly energetic sea trip that takes around 40 minutes each way.
A beach best reached by boat is Ao Toh Ko. It's quite stunning and gives you the opportunity to go snorkelling with dolphins, if you're lucky. Ao Toh Ko is peaceful, perfectly situated and difficult to leave!
Just ten minutes boat trip from Long Beach is the much quieter little Ao Poh beach. You can swim or snorkel in undisturbed jade green water here, almost feeling as though you're on a private Island yet really very close to the hubbub.