Roman ruins
Nîmes has some of the best preserved Roman ruins outside of Italy and many say that the city's amphitheater, Les Arenes, is second only to the Coliseum in terms of majesty.
Built in 100 AD to hold up to 24,000 spectators for gladiatorial duels, Les Arenes still plays host to intense spectacles of combat. Every September there is a bull-fighting festival in the arena, which can still seat 10,000. On a balmy late summer evening, packed to the rafters, Les Arenes really is a sight to behold.
If you're after something a little more serene, then a short walk away is Maison Carré, a delightful and incredibly intact first-century Roman temple. Again Nîmes is blessed in that this is possibly the best preserved Roman temple in the world. Inside there is a short film shown about the city's history so you can scratch up on your local knowledge.
By now ancient history buffs will be in heaven, and you haven't even laid eyes on the Pont du Gard yet. This immaculate aqueduct was built to transport water across the Gardon valley.
Even if your interests do not lie in the past, you will not fail to be amazed by Nîmes' ancient sites, which are all within easy walking distance of one another and contribute greatly to the romance of the city.
‘Modern' highlights
Compared to the Maison Carré, Nîmes Cathedral is relatively contemporary, having been built in the heady days of 1096. It was heavily damaged during the Protestant revolts of the 17th century though, and was almost completely remodeled over the preceding 200 years. However, its comparative newness is not to be scoffed at, for its Romanesque tower really is uniquely beautiful.
As the afternoon gets cooler, head to the Jardins de la Fontaine, the 18th-century pleasure gardens built around even more Roman ruins. The gardens contain magnificent sculptures and water fountains and are a lovely place to go for a peaceful stroll. Bring a bottle of Languedoc red, a baguette and some camembert and watch the sunset.
Brandade and other delicacies
With night drawing in you'll probably be thinking of somewhere for dinner, luckily Nîmes has some incredible restaurants serving up the best of local delicacies. The city's special dish is brandade, a delicious mixture of cod, potatoes, garlic and olive oil – a kind of French fish pie.
The best place to get a hearty plate of brandade is L'Ancien Théâtre, which also has the best olive tapenade you're likely to ever taste. For a more inexpensive meal, head to La Truyes qui Filhe, which means ‘the runaway pig' in old French. There is a buffet at this 14th-century tavern but don't be dismayed at the informality, the food is still impeccable.
After dinner, head to the Avenue Victor Hugo, which is lined with bars that stay open all night long.
