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The locals' guide to...Dublin
A weekend break in Dublin is always likely to be a boozy affair, but don't let the Guinness-induced haze stop you venturing away from the usual tourist haunts... And for more information you can purchase a Lonely Planet Dublin city guide or Dublin encounter guide
How do I get away from large tour groups wearing matching caps?
The Temple Bar area, situated on the South Quays between Dame Street and the Liffey, is the main attraction for tourists on a Dublin holiday. There can be a good buzz about the area during the day and there are some decent pubs, but at night there's a distinct possibility you'll run into large groups of stag parties attempting to redecorate the streets in different shades of vomit. And while this might be exactly what you're heading to Dublin for, the city also has an abundance of other attractions within a few minutes walk of the centre point, O'Connell Bridge. Grafton Street is a good place to start - as well as a whole host of shops, cafés and the like, it's famous for its buskers. Folk-warbler Damien Rice is among those who've performed there over the years.
Where do the locals party?
The Gingerman on Fenian Street is a favourite with local students, journalists and even the odd politician and as well as the obligatory Guinness, it has its own lager called Writer's Block. The young and trendy crowd head to the Bernard Shaw on Richmond Street, which has live bands and DJ sets, plus a smoking area complete with pool and table football. For your more traditional pub experience, it's worth sinking a pint of the black stuff in O'Donoghues near St Stephen's Green. There's usually a group of auld fellas sat around on stools playing fiddles, accordions and tin whistles - a must-see on any holiday to Dublin.
Restaurants without an 'all-you-can-eat tourist buffet'?
Dunne and Crescenzi on South Frederick Street is a good Italian restaurant popular with the locals. It's not too pricey and has a great wine list. For a pub lunch, O'Neill's just off Grafton Street lays on a great carvery every day for about 12€. They pile the food high, so it's perfect for laying the foundations ahead of a big session.
The locals' absolutely secret number one tip :
If you're looking for a late-night snack after the pubs have shut, Rick's on the corner of Dame Street and George's Street does a tasty burger. On Parliament Street, Zaytoon is also open late and serves up some popular home-made naans.
A quick guide to where the locals hang out
The view: Jump on the DART (the railway that runs down the Dublin coast) and head 20 minutes north of the city centre to Howth. Pick up some fish and chips from Beshoff's and check out the view and the seal pups down by the harbour.
The coffee: Sit and enjoy a coffee and a crêpe at Lemon on William Street.
The cocktail: The Capitol Lounge on Lower Stephen Street does a lethal Long Island Ice Tea.
The posh hangover cure: Sober up with a Guinness and oysters brunch at the Shelbourne on St Stephen's Green.
The shops : Brown Thomas is Dublin's answer to Selfridges and although it's no secret, it does have everything you need under one roof.
The place for people watching: Grab a coffee or a pint at the Bailey and check out the Grafton Street shopping crowd.
The tour: Take a look around the stunning Old Library at Trinity College.
The walk : Take the DART to Raheny, just a few stops outside the city centre. From the station, it's a ten minute walk to the coast where you can head over to the North Bull Island nature reserve.
Why not try? Dublin city walking tour
Details:
The Gingerman, 40 Fenian Street, +353 (0)1 676 6388; The Bernard Shaw, 11-12 South Richmond Street, +353 (0)85 7128342, www.bodytonicmusic.com/about/bshaw; O'Donoghues, 15 Merrion Row, +353 (0)1 6607194, www.odonoghues.ie; Dunne and Crescenzi, 14/16 South Frederick Street, +353 (0)1 6719135, www.dunneandcrescenzi.com; O'Neill's, 2 Suffolk Street, +353 (0)1 6793656, www.oneillsbar.com; Rick's Burgers, Dame Street, on the corner of George's Street; Zaytoon, 14/15 Parliament Street, +353 (0)1 6773595; Beshoff's Fish and Chips, 17-18 West Pier, Howth; Lemon Crepe and Coffee Company, 66 South William Street, +353 (0)1 6729044; Capitol Lounge, 18/19 Lower Stephen's Street, +353 (0)1 4757166, www.capitol.ie; The Shelbourne Dublin, 27 St Stephen's Green, +353 (0)1 6634500, www.marriott.co.uk; Brown Thomas, 88-95 Grafton Street, +353 (0)1 6056666, www.brownthomas.com; The Bailey, Duke Street, +353 (0)1 6704939, www.baileybar.ie; Old Library at Trinity College, College Street, +353 (0)1 8961661, www.tcd.ie/Library/heritage/index.php; Dublin Zoo, Phoenix Park, +353 (0)1 474 8900, www.dublinzoo.ie; The Unicorn, 12b Merrion Court, Merrion Row, +353 (0)1 6624757, www.unicornrestaurant.com; Grand Canal Hotel, Grand Canal Street Upper, Ballsbridge;
Can I drink the water?
The eight essential questions you'll need answering
Which local animal is likely to hospitalise me?
Unless one of the lions escapes from Dublin Zoo, you shouldn't have too much to worry about here.
Which native liquor will make me think I am attractive?
Guinness, Guinness and more Guinness. They say the stuff never tastes the same anywhere else, and you'll undoubtedly have your fill on your holiday to Dublin.
How can I avoid a beating by the local hard nuts?
Probably best not to say, "The Guinness here just isn't as good as the stuff we get in Surrey."
Will I get lost?
Transport links are pretty good around the centre of Dublin. Buses run regularly, as does the DART and the Luas (tram), so you shouldn't have too many problems re-locating your Dublin hotel.
Will I find myself?
You may find more of yourself - all that Guinness and good food will undoubtedly add a couple of inches to your waistline.
Should I take an umbrella?
Dublin receives a little less rainfall than the rest of the Emerald Isle but that's not to say you should expect desert conditions. Take your brolly.
What should I order in a restaurant to impress the locals?
Sample the antipasto buffet at The Unicorn just off Merrion Row. It's a favourite of the local media types.
Can I drink the water?
Yes. And have a pint or two of it before you hit the hay - it'll help keep that hangover at bay.
