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The locals' guide to...Berlin

If cities were fridges Berlin would be one of the coolest. Not only is it steeped in history it also has more edge than an octagon... And for more information you can purchase a Lonely Planet Berlin city guide or Berlin encounter guide

Berlin

How do I get away from large tour groups wearing matching caps?

Berlin is bursting with the kind monuments to recent history that have tourists trampling over groups of innocent children in their rush to see them. Sights such as the Brandenburg Gate, Tiergarten Park and the Reichstag are situated in the central Mitte district, which, for tour groups on cheap holidays to Berlin, has a gravitational pull slightly stronger than Jupiter's. To experience a different Berlin head to the Prenzlauer Berg (young and alternative crowd), Kreuzberg (culturally diverse, large Turkish community), Friedrichshain (bohemian, hip and happening) and Charlottenburg (luxury shopping, modern architecture) districts, which you may find more rewarding.

Where do the locals party?

If you fancy yourself as a hardcore raver but haven't been on a city break to Berlin, well, what have you been doing? Since the wall came down in 1989, the city's former industrial buildings have provided the perfect setting for one of the most cutting-edge club scenes in the world - now that's how to use a communist legacy. Post-industrial techno temple Berghain in Friedrichshain is the city's current hotspot. Housed in a former power station it's an awesome venue (think raving in the Tate Modern and you're not far off).

Restaurants without an 'all-you-can-eat tourist buffet'?

When it comes to cuisine Berlin hardly has Paris shaking in its boots. The German capital has long struggled to shake off its Prussian culinary heritage. However, things are changing - Berlin's ethnic eateries have added a touch of much needed excitement to the traditional fare and are also unlikely to be overrun by the masses who stream out of their Berlin hotels. The Prager Hopfenstube in Friedrichshain serves up authentically hearty Czech food, Café V will delight savvy vegetarians, while a trip to Hasir in Kreuzberg certainly won't - it's where the Döner kebab was invented. If you're not too sure what you fancy then head to the Oranienstrasse or Bergmannstrasse areas in Kreuzberg or Winterfeldtplatz in Schöneberg, all of which offer a variety of cafés and restaurants to suit all tastes.

The locals' absolutely secret number one tip : Disrobe to your Bermuda shorts or bikini and make for east Berlin, one of Europe's lesser known beach resorts. In Strandbar Mitte a tropical-style beach bar complete with palm trees, deckchairs and tons of imported sand conjures up a bit of the exotic.

A quick guide to where the locals hang out

Berlin

The breakfast: Pasternak in Knaackstrasse has a fantastic breakfast buffet on Sundays until 3pm.

The spa: Liquidrom in Kreuzberg. An über-trendy waterworld, complete with ambient electronica soundtrack.

The cocktail : Fluido in Prenzlauer Berg is one of the best - and coolest - cocktail bars in town.

The view: Join the queue for the revolving Café im Fernsehturm high above Alexanderplatz. Awesome 360º views of the city.

The shops : For something out of the ordinary head to the Sunday flea markets at Arkonaplatz or Mauerpark, both in Mitte, or Boxhagener Platz in Friedrichshain.

The club: For electronic music you can't beat Berghain or Watergate in Kreuzberg. If rock's more your scene head to Bassy on Schönhauser Allee.

The gallery: Gemäldegalerie near Potsdamer Platz features exhibits from renowned French, Dutch, English and German artists from the 13th century onwards.

The place to be seen: If you're looking for quintessential Berlin cool head to A-Trane jazz club in Charlottenburg.

Why not try? Berlin's infamous Third Reich sites half day walking tour

Details:

Berghain, Am Wriezener Bahnhof, Friedrichshain, www.berghain.de; Prager Hopfenstube, Karl-Marx-Allee 127, Friedrichshain, +49 (0)30 4267367; Café V, Lausitzer Platz 12, Kreuzberg, +49 (0)30 6124505; Hasir, Adalbertstraße 10, Kreuzberg, +49 (0)30 6142373, www.hasir.de; Strandbar Mitte, Monbijoustraße 3, Mitte, www.strandbar-mitte.de; Pasternak, Knaackstraße 22/24, Prenzlauer Berg, +49 (0)30 4413399, www.restaurant-pasternak.de; Liquidrom, Möckernstraße 10, Kreuzberg, +49 (0)30 258007820, www.liquidrom-berlin.de; Fluido, Christburger Straße 6, Prenzlauer Berg, +49 (0)30 4404302; Telecafé im Fernsehturm, Panoramastraße 1a, Mitte, +49 (0)30 2423333, www.berlinerfernsehturm.de; Flea Market Arkonaplatz, Arkonaplatz, Mitte; Flea Market am Mauerpark, Bernauer Straße 63-64, Mitte, www.mauerparkmarkt.de; Flea Market Boxhagener Platz, Boxhagener Platz, Friedrichshain; Watergate Club, Falckensteinstraße 49, Kreuzberg, +49 (0)30 61280396, www.water-gate.de; Bassy, Schönhauser Allee 176a, Prenzlauer Berg, +49 (0)30 2818323, www.bassy-club.de; Gemäldegalerie, Matthäikirchplatz 4/6, Tiergarten, +49 (0)30 2663660, www.gemaeldegalerie-berlin.de; Jazz-Club A-Trane, Bleibtreustraße 1, Charlottenburg, +49 (0)30 3132550, www.a-trane.de; Tierpark Berlin, Am Tierpark 135, Friedrichsfelde, +49 (0)30 515310, www.tierpark-berlin.de; Arcotel Velvet, Oranienburger Straße 52, Mitte;

already got ideas where you would like to go?
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Can I drink the water?

The eight essential questions you'll need answering

Which local animal is likely to hospitalise me?

The only clear and present danger in Berlin is at Friedrichsfelde Zoo, home to one of the deadliest collections of venomous snakes in Europe.

Which native liquor will make me think I am attractive?

After a few too many steins of the local blond beer you'll be the sexiest person this side of the Iron Curtain. Then you'll throw up on your lap.

How can I avoid a beating by the local hard nuts?

Ok, so you might not expect hip hop to be big in Berlin but it is so don't diss the local rap scene, especially in Märkisches Viertel where Germany's biggest rapper Sido comes from. Unless you want a cap in your ass.

Will I get lost?

Possibly. Berlin is larger and less concentrated than most European capital cities, so a decent map should definitely be on the shopping list. Germany being Germany though, public transport is efficient, cheap and easy to use.

Will I find myself?

Young, arty, liberal, techno-loving types stand a fair chance. Some such tourists have been known to stay for good.

Should I take an umbrella?

Yes. Although often hot and pleasant Berlin's summers are unpredictable. Somewhat surprisingly, more rain falls in June than any other month.

What should I order in a restaurant to impress the locals?

Ordering a sausage will hardly make you the Steve Irwin of German cuisine, but if you opt for a Bierschinken - it contains ham and pistachios - you may look like you live life on the edge a little.

Can I drink the water?

Of course. Drinking fountains pepper public streets too so you'll never go thirsty.