The best restaurants in San Sebastian

Before we get to the best restaurants in San Sebastian, let’s take a look at its neighbourhoods. The first port of call for most visitors is the Old Town (Parta Vieja), with its sunny plazas, colourful, narrow streets overlooked by balconies, and the port. Not to mention the scent of pintxos drifting around every corner. Abutting this is the popular La Concha beach area. This picturesque sandy bay, backed by a grand esplanade, is a top attraction for swimming, surfing and sunbathing. At the other end of the esplanade is another beach, golden-sand Ondarreta, behind which lies the historic Antiguo district. The well-heeled area is home to traditional establishments serving Basque cuisine, as well as a funicular leading up to Monte Igueldo for a spectacular sunset view. Gros is the cool surfing neighbourhood with vibrant nightlife, budget-friendly eateries and a stunning beach – Zurriola – where you’ll catch the best waves. On the same side of the river, Egia is the arty district home to the Tabakalera – a cigarette factory turned cultural exhibition space – and a maze of charming streets with local bars and restaurants. Furthest from the beach is Amara, a residential neighbourhood with tree-lined boulevards, second-hand markets, the football stadium and a riverside esplanade.

What with it being famed for meat and fish, you might think that San Sebastian restaurants wouldn’t cater to a plant-based diet. But this is one of the most innovative culinary cities in Europe, and good food thrives in all its guises. Start your day with vegan baked goods from trendy seafront spot The Loaf, or head to Old Town Coffee for reportedly the best coffee in the city, plus pastries, bowls and toasts. Kafe Botanika is an Instagrammable spot where plant-based delights are served under a dense canopy of greenery. It offers mouth-watering cakes, bakes and breakfasts, as well as mains and even jazz gigs in the evenings. Head to Egia neighbourhood favourite Garraxi Taberna to sample their four-course lunch menu for under €15. This San Sebastian restaurant is 100% vegetarian, serving up dishes so delectable that even non-veggies will drool. Two more favourites are seafront star Fresh Green for rainbow salads, bowls, burgers and tapas, and Mapa Verde with its pretty interior and even prettier food. If you’re in the old town with a sweet craving, make a beeline for La Viña to sample their infamous cheesecake (vegetarian) or head to nearby Maiatza for a vegan take on the city’s favourite dessert.

It seems remiss not to mention Michelin-starred venues in a city that has so many. The crème de la crème are top-notch trio Arzak, Akelarre and Martín Berasategui, with three stars apiece. Arzak is a chic, out-of-town restaurant presenting dishes almost too pretty to eat. Mugaritz is an experimental Michelin-starred experience set in the hills, with a thoroughly unconventional approach to haute cuisine. Mirador de Ulía has one Michelin star and, at the affordable end of the scale, is a good option for entry-level haute cuisine. It also overlooks one of the best views of the city, promising exceptional flavours and an unrivalled vista at night.