Budapest is always worth a visit; the city is packed with things to do, see, eat and drink, as well as a whole host of spas thanks to its location on a thermal-springs hot-spot. Spending Christmas in Budapest promises an extra level of fairy-tale excitement.
During winter, the whole city sparkles, bedecked with lights and Christmas trees, with fantastic Christmas shopping, markets and ice-skating. The main shopping street of Váci utca is alight with window displays and fairy lights. If you’re looking for festive things to do in Budapest in December, you won’t be short of ideas.
Surely no Christmas in Budapest is complete without at least one trip to the Christmas markets. The rows of festive stalls are piled with traditional and quirky gifts and decorations, but they’re also beautiful just to wander through. Come in the evening for an especially Christmassy atmosphere and get yourself a warming mulled wine or nibble on a steaming, cinnamon-sweet funnel cake to be truly traditional. You’ll find the oldest and most-traditional market at Vörösmarty Square, as well as smaller but equally lovely stalls at the Basilica, Várkert Bazaar and Vajdahunyad Castle.
Vörösmarty Square dates: 10:00–~21:00, 18th Nov – 28th Dec
Basilica dates: 11:00–21:00 (23:00 weekends), 18th Nov–1st Jan
When temperatures hit sub-zero, as they often do in winter in Hungary, make a beeline for Budapest’s famous thermal baths. There are more than a dozen public baths, plus some hotels have their own spa options. The most popular are Széchenyi and Gellert Baths, both of which have outdoor pools where you can submerge yourself, with snow lying all around, and watch the steam roll off the water. Take a trip early in the morning or later in the evening to get a magical experience and a quieter atmosphere.
Széchenyi opening: 07:00–20:00 inc. 25th & 26th Dec, open 08:00–13:00 24th Dec
Gellert opening: 09:00–20:00 inc. 26th Dec, 10:00–19:00 25th Dec, 09:00–14:00 24th Dec
Every half an hour after dark, St Stephan’s Basilica puts on a Christmas lightshow which plays out on the exterior of the building. It’s an easy one to tick off your list of things to do in Budapest at Christmas as it runs every day from mid-November right through to the end of December, and you merely have to be nearby to stop and enjoy it. To get the full experience, take a tour of the Basilica first or, better yet, attend an atmospheric Christmas concert (often free) in the evening.
When: mid-Nov until 31st Dec
Opening: main (~£2.50) 13:00–17:30, treasury and look-out (~£4.70) 09:00–19:00 (both ~£7)
Get into the festive spirit in Budapest in December with a ride on the Budapest Christmas "light tram" or Fényvillamos. It runs mostly on line 2 across the city from 5 p.m. throughout December and early January. It’s a regular tram ticket, so if you need to get from A to B anyway, you may as well hop on the bedecked carriages. From the 5th of December children can also take a magical trip on Santa’s trolley bus, with the main man himself, and donate small gifts which will be passed on to families in need.
Tram details: Line 2, 4, 47 and 19, approx. 29th Nov – 5th Jan
Santa’s Trolley Bus: Different line each day, 5th–19th Dec
Christmas in Budapest is pretty picturesque, and what could be more festive than ice skating in front of the iconic Vajdahunyad Castle, with a dusting of snow all around? The castle is beautiful in winter, it’s fairy-tale silhouette surrounded by white frost and berry laden trees. Hop on the ice for under £4, or book into an adult skating lesson – there are kiddies’ sessions too. You can also peruse the Christmas market and get a welcome glug of mulled wine after you’ve been on the chilly ice rink.
Dates: 17th Nov–31st Dec, 09:00–21:00, 10:00–21:00 Sat, 10:00–20:00 Sun
Prices: ~£4.20 adult, £15–18 family tickets
Although this city is rather spectacular when there’s a chill in the air, at some point, you’re going to want to get inside and warm up. Perfect! Budapest is full of cosy eateries and atmospheric ruin bars, dimly lit, so you can grab a drink and hunker down for the evening. It’s also the perfect time of year to take some time on the stunning architecture and history inside the castle, the parliament building, the Matthias Church, Hungarian State Opera or the Dohány Street Synagogue.
Best ruin bars: Szimpla Kert, Élesztőház, Csendes
Hungarian State Opera: 60-minute tour daily 13:30, 15:00 & 16:30 ~£15
Get toasty while browsing the impressive Central Market Hall for souvenirs and sampling Hungarian ‘street food’. Try the cheesy, doughy lángos, goulash or töltött káposzta – a tasty stuffed cabbage. Then finish off with a herby shot of unicum, the most popular liquor here, and a many-layered strudel or cake. The city also has a big coffee-house culture, so use the opportunity to sip on a sublime coffee and tuck into delicious delicacies like Dobos torta, Esterházy cake or seasonal gesztenyepüré, a sweetened chestnut puree topped with whipped cream.
Market hall hours: 06:00–06:00 (13:00 Dec 24th), closed 25/26th
Coffee houses: New York Café, First Strudel House of Pest
A cruise along the Danube is glorious in summer too, but if you’re looking for things to do in Budapest in December – and it’s wet and cold to boot – it’s a fabulous solution. You’ll drift past all the key sights like the castle, the Hungarian Parliament, Fisherman’s Bastion and more, but you’ll be cosied up inside a heated boat, possibly with a bar or food options if you book the right vessel. If you have the chance, book an evening tour to see the city glowing in chill night air.
Basic sightseeing fare: ~£8–10, 1 hour
Night cruise fare: with drinks ~£17, with dinner ~£50/60
Just outside the city centre, accessible by car or bus, is the huge Normafa country park. It’s at its best and most-popular when it’s blanketed in snow. Snow is a frequent occurrence in Hungary during December, January and beyond, so you’re likely to find a day with thick enough cover to grab a plastic sled and head to the hill with the locals. They love to sled (or ski or snowboard) and then take the chair lift back up. There are even a few cosy bars and cafes for après-sled fun.
Getting there: Bus 21/21a from Széll Kálmán tér M stop to Normafa, Gyermekvasút
Where to sled: Anna-rét run (see Normafa park tourist info)
If you’re in Budapest after Christmas, it’s worth sticking around for the New Year’s fireworks. The river is the place to ring in the New Year, so if you can book in advance and get on a cruise, you’ll not only have your dinner covered, but you’ll get a prime seat for viewing the spectacular display over the river. The fireworks can also be seen from the banks and bars nearby, of course. Or you could go extra-fancy and book an NYE ball or gala on a boat.
Top tip: Széchenyi baths hold a big NYE party
NYE Cruise price: with dinner, drinks and music ~£80–90
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