Description
Venue: Rock Fortress of Sigiriya When: Daily
Sri Lanka's fifth century fortress and penthouse, rising from the plains atop a huge rock, is most famous for its remarkably well preserved frescoes of beautiful Sigiriyan damsels. Amongst the complex of buildings, garden and waterways ruins, the enchanting women still glow in the late afternoon light.
Kasyapa, so the legend goes, walled up his father the King alive and built Sigiriya as an inpenetrable fortress against his half-brother, the rightful heir. By the time the invasion came he had created a glorious wet-season palace, graduating up a 200 metre high rock. Riding out on an elephant to meet the enemy, Kasyapa took his life after getting bogged in a swamp.
Sigiriya was only really rediscovered during the British era and is now one of the country's most popular sightseeing destinations. An early start will help avoid both other visitors and the midday sun - it's a steep climb!
The Sigiriya frescoes are found halfway up the rock in a sheltered alcove, now reached by a spiral staircase. The only non-religious paintings of their kind in Sri Lanka, there were once perhaps 500 portraits covering the rock face. About 22 remain today. The exquisite detail shows accomplished painting skills and a definite desire to entice. In fact, 1000 years ago visitors felt compelled to jot down their reactions on a glazed wall a little beyond the frescoes. This early 'graffiti' has been deciphered by scholars and provides clues as to the development of Sinhalese language, as well as a bit of amusement for non-academics.
The entrance to Sigiriya takes visitors through water gardens which once used sophisticated technology for both aesthetic and practical use of flowing water. Further up is the more organic boulder garden and the terrace gardens. Taking the steep staircase to the summit, visitors pass through the remains of a giant lion statue, its paws either side of the steps. The summit is covered in the foundations of ancient buildings (including the King's throne) and offers wonderful views of the gardens below and the surrounding countryside.
A whole day is fully recommended for exploring Sigiriya. There are a number of places to stay, from budget to top-end hotels, several with close-up views of the rock. There will be many potential guides there to greet to but of course they will want paying for their services.