Venue: Italy When: DailyThe largest and possibly the cleanest of the Italian lakes, Lago di Garda is also probably the most popular. But not without good reason - the gentle climate, citrus spirits and more than palatable wines do help to make it so. Even DH Lawrence was inspired to scribble
Twilight in Italy because of the waters and surrounding features.
It was only at the turn of the 20th century that the road around the shores of Lake Garda was completed, which means that tourism arrived relatively recently (compared to the well trodden shores of Lake Como or Maggiore). There's no doubt that the tourist net is firmly cast over its shores now. The gentle climate, scores of shoreside towns and awesome windsurfing conditions make this huge body of water a very special one.
Winters at the Lake are mild and the otherwise hot summers are cooled by the familiar and well-loved breezes: the northern
sover which blows from midnight to the morning and the
ova which blows from the south in the afternoon and evening. Along the most sheltered stretch of the lake - the so-called 'River Bresciana' you can find lush groves of vines, olives and citrus trees. From these, Garda's famous exports are made: olive oil, citrus syrups and
Bardolino,
Soave and
Valpolicella wines. This rich vegetation dies out near the rugged northern end, where the lake narrows and becomes enclosed by craggy barren mountains. In contrast, the southern shores - some 16km wide at times - are surrounded by a plain.
There are many ways to enjoy the lake and many places to venture from. What follows is intended to be a helpful (yet scant) idea of how or where to start or stop - the website listed here should fill you in with much much more:
- Southern Shore: This is easily accessible from the Milan - Venice autostrada and railway. The Desenzano Del Garda is the place that connects (road, rail, bus, ferry) to everywhere else. Nearby places of interest include San Martino Della Battaglia, the site where Napolean III defeated the Austrians in 1859 (the slaughters at which inspired the founding of the Red Cross). Sirmione covets remains of the ubiquitous Roman spa and lidos to bathe in. The sulphurous springs still attract those seeking cures.
- Western Shore: Apparently cleaner water than the northern area, this is where to pitch your tent if you are a camper. Unless, that is, you are a Mussolini fan, in which case you can visit Salo where his short-lived republic was vaguely installed. Further along the shore, there's the awesome botanical gardens at Gardone Riviera and one of the Lake's many highlights: the home of Italy's famous author D'Annunzio, Il Vittoriale. Other northern towns worth thinking about are San Michele (walking, views and nearby waterfalls), Toscalano-Moderno (beach, sailing, Mussolini's old HQ) and Riva del Garda (castle, art, very good icecream).
- Eastern Shore: The Monte Baldo mountain chain runs along this stretch - making it a great area for keen hikers/walkers/cyclists/fit people who like to sweat! The town of Torbole makes a great base for windsurfers, sailers or other sports fanatics (lycra being a favoured material here). Further south, the very pretty Torri del Benaco has yet to succumb to the ravages of tacky commercialism, while Garda, unsurprisingly, has. If it's the children you are worried about, this is also one area to head towards. Even the Lombardians have caught on to theme park madness - Gardaland is Italy's most popular amusement park. Just don't eat too many pizzas before you get there.