What to expect
Postwar prosperity has swept aside ash and rubble to revive the city's former grandeur
When to go
December for Christkindle's Market featuring pastries, celebrations, and crafts
What to do
Albrecht Dürer House, Germanic National Museum, St.-Sebaldus-Kirche, Kaiserburg
Local colour
Artisan-crafted toys, woodcarvings, glassware, and pewter crafts at Handwerkerhof
Don't miss
Tour the infamous former rallying point of the Nazi party at Zeppelinfeld Arena
Don't forget
Ask the guard for permission to enter Justizgebdude--where the 1946 war-crimes tribunal sat