Beijing Short breaks

Few cities on earth are changing as fast as Beijing, capital city of the Peoples Republic of China (PRC). Construction cranes rule the horizon, new hotels, shopping malls and commercial plazas (not to mention 37 sports stadiums and 59 training facilities) are springing up at giddying speed and old sectors of the city are being razed and modernized. In short, Beijing is focused on one thing only; the 2008 Olympics. Hosting the Games represents the ultimate statement of Chinas emergence as a global superpower, and it is determined to make the Peoples Olympics the most successful and dazzling ever staged.

Beijings high-speed physical evolution moves hand-in-hand with a firmly retained grip on its rich cultural heritage and strict Communist social order. A monolithic showcase city, Beijing can give a distorted view of China to foreign visitors. Its soaring modern architecture and vast international hotels are connected by an intricate system of broad boulevards and ring roads around the city. Rush hour traffic jams can match those of any major world city and the pollution can be eye-watering. Beyond the modernity, Beijing offers a bountiful hotpot of traditional lane houses (hutong), parks, architectural and cultural treasures and exquisite temples.

Beijing became Chinas capital in 1421 and was to remain so until the collapse of the imperial regime in 1911. It was not until the late 19th century that Westerners were allowed to reside there and all trading links had previously been restricted to Canton. From 1911 to 1949 Beijing suffered, as did the rest of China, from the wars fought between various factions trying to take control of the whole country. The Japanese invasion in 1931 was followed by a bitter civil war, which finally led to Communist supremacy under Mao Ze Dong and the founding of the Peoples Republic of China with Beijing as the capital.

The first 10 years of Maos rule stabilised a fearful, humiliated nation and great advances were made in industry, agriculture, education and health care. However, in 1966, Mao launched the Cultural Revolution, an attack on liberal political and social thought, the legacy of which is still felt across the country. Following Maos death in 1976, President Deng Xiao Ping gradually opened up China to the outside world, welcoming foreigners as co-investors and tourists, and empowering Chinese entrepreneurs to set up businesses. Since 1999, Beijing has received a staggering US$10.31 billion in direct foreign investment, most of it in the 4-mile square Central Business District (CBD).

Theres only one place to begin exploring the city Tiananmen Square, where Mao Ze Dong declared the foundation of the Peoples Republic. Though more closely identified with the suppression of the student-led pro-democracy protests of 1989, the worlds largest public square is an impressive tourism centrepiece. To stand (alongside thousands of visitors) and see the imposing majesty of the Forbidden City to the north and the vast portrait of Mao Ze Dong on the Tiananmen Gate itself is to appreciate the awesome hold that Chinas rulers have always had on the people. For further confirmation, turn around and see the snaking queue of people preparing to enter Chairman Maos mausoleum.

Beijing is at its best in late spring and, particularly, autumn when crisp, sunny days are accompanied by tree leaves turning glorious shades of red and gold. The heat and humidity of summer and the biting wind in winter can be extreme.