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The locals' guide to...Vienna
Take a Viennese waltz around Austria's capital and enjoy a curious mix of high culture and the über-trendy avant-garde...
How do I get away from large tour groups wearing matching caps?
Thanks to its Habsburg past and classical music heritage (the city has gyrated to Mozart, Beethoven, Schubert, Brahms and Mahler) most tourists travel to Vienna for the high culture. To avoid the grey-haired hordes pouring out of their Vienna hotels, travel outside the key tourist periods. The Fasching season - carnival time - is a great opportunity to see the lighter side of Vienna life. It reaches its height in February when locals don bizarre costumes, imbibe cheap beer and dance away the night in various street parties.
Where do the locals party?
While older Viennese have a reputation for being stand-offish and grumpy, the city's youth more than make up for it with their party spirit. They've always had a penchant for electronic music - think Kruder & Dorfmeister - and now, thanks to venues such as Flex, Roxy, Goodmann, and Passage, dance music is making a comeback. If you want to get all authentic on your Vienna holiday, join the locals letting their hair down at the Strandbar Herrmann city beach in Herrmannpark.
Restaurants without an 'all-you-can-eat tourist buffet'?
When it comes to Austrian food, you've got three genres of restaurant: the Heurigen (wine bars), the Beisln (beer houses) and the Kaffeehäuser (cafés). All serve food alongside their chosen beverage. But be warned, nearly all allow smoking. Alternatively, mingle with young actors at Kleines Café on Franziskanerplatz.
The locals' absolutely secret number one tip :
Tickets for the world-famous Spanish Riding School have to be booked months in advance. But if you're lucky and turn up a couple of hours in advance you may bag some cancelled seats.
A quick guide to where the locals hang out
The beach: Beach in a land-locked country? Surely not? But actually Vienna has its very own city beach, the Strandbar Herrmann in Herrmannpark, on the banks of the Danube.
The breakfast: Sit and enjoy breakfast among the palms of the huge 19th century greenhouse known as Palmenhaus. The Carpe Diem (yoghurt, fruit, omelette and more) is well worth the 11.50€ price tag.
The flicks: Bellaria Kino specialises in old Austrian black and whites and welcomes real film buffs. Don't expect the latest Bond flick.
The shops : Bernhart has some of the best young designer labels. There's one store on Mariahilfer Straße and one on Kärntner Straße and it's not as expensive as it sounds.
The gallery: The city's modern art gallery, MUMOK, contains a basement full of Viennese Actionism - that violent 1960s art movement featuring naked bodies, dead animals, blood and faeces. Don't go just after lunch.
The coffee: Vienna's hundreds of coffee houses, and the surly waiters that man them, are national institutions. They offer lengthy menus with brews featuring egg yolk, honey, ice cream and cognac. Head to Café Demel on Kohlmarkt street, where you can start with the classic Melange (similar to a cappuccino) and branch out later.
The museum: Alt Wiener Schnapsmuseum - a shrine to schnapps. Don't miss the tasting session.
The club: Considered by many to be the best club in town, Flex near Augartenbrücke has a sound system to rival any across Europe. There are nice picnic tables by the canal in summer.
Why not try? Vienna historical city tour with Schonbrunn Palace visit
Details:
Flex, Am Donaukanal, Abgang Augartenbrücke, +43 (0)1 5337525, www.flex.at; Roxy, Operngasse 24, Ecke Faulmangasse, +43 (0)1 9618800, www.roxyclub.at; Goodmann, Rechte Wienzeile 23, +43 (0)1 9674415, www.goodmann.at; Passage, Babenberger Passage, Burgring, Ecke Babenbergerstraße, +43 (0)1 9618800, www.sunshine.at; Strandbar Herrmann, Herrmannpark, www.strandbarherrmann.at; Kleines Café, Franziskanerplatz 3; Spanish Riding School, Michaelerstraße 1, +43 (0)1 5339031, www.srs.at; Palmenhaus, Burggarten 1, +43 (0)1 5331033, www.palmenhaus.at; Bellaria Kino, Museumstraße 3, +43 (0)1 5237591; Bernhart, Kärntner Straße 35, +43 (0)1 5129103; MUMOK - Museum Moderner Kunst Stiftung Ludwig Wien, Museumsplatz 1, +43 (0)1 52500, www.mumok.at; Café Demel, Kohlmarkt 14, +43 (0)1 53517170, www.demel.at; Alt Wiener Schnapsmuseum, Wilhelmstraße 19-21, +43 (0)1 8157300, www.schnapsmuseum.com; Wilhelmshof Hotel, Kleine Stadtgutgasse 4;
Can I drink the water?
The eight essential questions you'll need answering
Which local animal is likely to hospitalise me?
The devious little European polecat can be found in Austria, though if you spot one on your Vienna city break you have probably taken a serious wrong turn somewhere.
Which native liquor will make me think I am attractive?
Vienna has its own city vineyards which keep the numerous wine bars well-stocked. Or if you want to appear really sexy in your own mind, down a few schnapps.
How can I avoid a beating by the local hard nuts?
Do not kiss an Austrian woman's hand - disappointingly, only Austrian men are allowed to do that.
Will I get lost?
Vienna is compact and most sights are within the Ringstraße, so you shouldn't get too disorientated.
Will I find myself?
If you don't you can always pay a psychotherapist to do it for you. Sigmund Freud was brought up and studied in Vienna, and his legacy lives on in shrink waiting rooms all over the city.
Should I take an umbrella?
The 700mm a year of rainfall tends to come mainly in the summer months, so wellies may be more useful than brollies.
What should I order in a restaurant to impress the locals?
Break free from the Wiener Schnitzel. Ask for something like Leberknödelsuppe (beef broth with liver dumplings). It'll put hairs on your chest, especially if you're female.
Can I drink the water?
Two large pipelines bring pristine Alpine water straight into the city, so drink away.
