The locals' guide to...Milan
Whether it's food, fashion or football, Milan does everything with a touch of élan. So don't forget to pack your Armani sunglasses, especially in winter... And for more information you can purchase a Lonely Planet Italy guide.
How do I get away from large tour groups wearing matching caps?
As a city of high fashion, not even the least style conscious visitors can bring themselves to break out the sandals and socks when they travel to Milan. And fortunately, in comparison with other Italian cities, it's relatively low on the tourist count. However at peak times the main sites - such as the Duomo and the The church of Santa Maria delle Grazie - can get busy. So, if you're planning a Milan holiday there's one place you can't miss if you're seeking a bit of peace and quiet. Cimitero Monumentale is a cemetery like no other and the extravagant tombs really have to be seen to be believed.
Where do the locals party?
Dust off your best knock-off designer suit, adopt an air of sophistication and stroll elegantly to Corso Como. It's one of Milan's best nightspots, with plenty of bars to choose from and definitely the place to be seen. Try the Discoteca Hollywood. Alternatively head to the Gattopardo Café. This former church is a great place where you can dance in the nave and in front of the altar DJ booth.
Restaurants without an 'all-you-can-eat tourist buffet'?
Leave the centre of town by the Duomo in your wake and head off down side streets where you'll find real Italian food - an essential ingredient of any city break to Milan. Don't judge a restaurant by its frontage either. The Via Piero della Francesca has some outstanding eateries that might not look much from the outside but are well worth a try and won't bankrupt you. Most bars and restaurants have a happy hour where you get antipasti with your drinks - very tasty, even more so because it's free of charge.
The locals' absolutely secret number one tip :
There is an excellent open-air market on Via Fauchè every Tuesday and Saturday. Located near to the Corso Sempione, it sells clothes, food, shoes, sunglasses and more. Most of it fake, mind - except the food.
A quick guide to where the locals hang out
The shops : If you're feeling flush or you've just won the lottery then Via Montenapoleone is the place for you - think Armani, think Gucci, think Prada, think second mortgage. Milan's not just about the big names though - there are markets, department stores and inexpensive boutiques tucked away. Head to the Brera for smaller shops, or the streets leading off the Corso Sempione.
The trip: Even if you are on a short holiday to Milan, try to make time to catch a train to San Giovanni, the main station at Lake Como, for spectacular scenery and ferry trips across the lake. George Clooney has a house there and can regularly be seen sunbathing nude. Well, you can dream...
The gallery: The Brera National Art Gallery has fine collections including Bellini, Mantegna and Raffaello.
The cocktail : Corso Sempione is lined with stylish bars. Try Deseo, a lounge/restaurant with great Mojitos and Caipirinhas.
The coffee: It's hard to find a bad coffee in Milan, but Cova patisserie on Via Montenapoleone serves a particularly fine one. It's been there since 1817 and for good reason. Try the cakes too.
The museum: Try La Triennale di Milano, a design museum with an innovative approach to the way they exhibit their items.
The place for people watching: When you travel to Milan this could be just about anywhere. The Duomo takes some beating though.
The place to be seen: The whole city is the place to be seen, especially if you've got your designer labels on show. The Corso Como is a particularly good place to strut your stuff in the evening.
Why not try? Milan half-day tour with Da Vinci's Last Supper
Details:
Cimitero Monumentale, Piazza le Cimitero Monumentale, +39 02 88465600, www.monumentale.net; Discoteca Hollywood, Corso Como 15, +39 02 6598996, www.discotecahollywood.com; Il Gattopardo Café, Via Piero della Francesca 47, +39 02 34537699, www.ilgattopardocafe.it; Mercato Via Fauchè, near Corso Sempione; Pinacoteca di Brera, Via Brera 28, +39 02 722631, www.brera.beniculturali.it; Deseo, Corso Sempione 2, +39 02 315164; Pasticceria Cova, Via Montenapoleone 8, +39 02 76005599, www.pasticceriacova.com; Triennale di Milano, Viale Allemagna 6, +39 02 724341, www.triennale.it; Andreola Central Hotel, Via Domenico Scarlatti 24;
Can I drink the water?
The eight essential questions you'll need answering
Which local animal is likely to hospitalise me?
The Milanese love their frou-frou dogs - Chihuahua's, Shihtzu's, anything that can fit a diamante collar. Watch your step or you could trip over one.
Which native liquor will make me think I am attractive?
Grappa. You drink it but it tastes like it could strip paint. Made from grape seeds, stalks and stems it's originally a by-product of the wine making process. Good luck in finding your way back to your Milan hotel after a night on it.
How can I avoid a beating by the local hard nuts?
Blend in. Men: turn your collars up and light a Marlboro. Women: make sure you've got a petite pooch and a large, expensive handbag. Sunglasses all round.
Will I get lost?
Not really. The transport system of trams, subway and trains runs smoothly and effectively and the city itself is easy to navigate when you're on a Milan holiday.
Will I find myself?
In a spiritual sense, no chance. You will find yourself spending a fortune on designer labels though.
Should I take an umbrella?
In the summer months you wont need one. Rainfall peaks in October/November.
What should I order in a restaurant to impress the locals?
The Milanese Cutlet is a breaded veal chop, fried in butter and normally served still on the bone. Failing that you can't go far wrong with a so-called "pizza" - an Italian speciality that really should be more popular around the world.
Can I drink the water?
Yes, but only to dilute the coffee a bit.
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