The locals' guide to...Athens
With its enticing mix of ancient and modern, Athens is as head-spinning as a night out on the ouzo. Here's what the locals say of their city... And why not purchase a Lonely PlanetGreece guide for more information
How do I get away from large tour groups wearing matching caps?
Spreading a rumour that aliens are hanging around the Parthenon looking for humans to experiment on may put some tourists off, but the likelihood is you'll just have to spend some time rubbing shoulders with the mass of people on cheap holidays to Athens. Time it right and you may miss most of them - visit the Acropolis as early or as late as possible and then take the short walk to the ruins of the ancient Agora, which was once the heart of all public activity in the city.
Where do the locals party?
Don't start randomly smashing plates after dinner - it may be fun but isn't really how modern Greeks get their thrills. Instead head to the city's old gasworks. It doesn't sound promising but the area, known as the Gazi district, has benefitted from massive regeneration and become one of the best spots to visit after sundown. It doesn't get going until pretty late, but you can find some excellent cafés, restaurants and bars here that are open well into the night. Or try the Pláka, which has plenty of atmospheric restaurants and bars.
Restaurants without an 'all-you-can-eat tourist buffet'?
Athenians aren't allowed to take their cars on to the narrow streets of the Pláka, making it a great place to stroll around in the hunt for food. There are some tasty seafood dishes on offer in the area's tavernas and O Platanos in particular offers authentic Greek dishes and dinner alongside the locals.
The locals' absolutely secret number one tip :
Want to lose the tour groups and get the adrenaline pumping? Head to the Nissakia Wave Society just 25km outside of Athens. It's a little-known surf spot, and even going along to watch the pros is worth the trip.
A quick guide to where the locals hang out
The beach: The best ones are found south of the city at Glyfada, Vouliagmeni and Varkiza. But the islands are a better bet for sand-lovers and it's easy and cheap to catch a ferry or hydrofoil from the port.
The view: The terrace restaurant on top of the Benaki Museum affords a glorious view of the city.
The cocktail: The Hoxton bar in Gazi is indeed named after the famous square in London's trendy Shoreditch, though is less likely to be populated by design agency staff on coke.
The coffee: For a frappé, try the bohemian Café Abyssinia or Café Dioscouri close to Monastiraki square, where you can have a browse around the local flea markets after your coffee.
The museum: The Benaki Museum houses the private collection of Antonios Benakis, the son of a wealthy Greek from Alexandria.
The place for people watching: Close your eyes, point to a map and choose your spot - you can sit on any street corner in Athens and you won't be disappointed.
The trip: The Temple of Poseidon in Soúnio is spectacular. You can get there by car or bus along the coastal road from Athens. From the city centre, the regular local bus departs from Mavromateon.
The gallery: To see some local art you can't beat The Medusa Art Gallery in Kolonaki.
Why not try? Acropolis walking tour
Details:
Acropolis, +30 (0)210 9238175, odysseus.culture.gr; Agora, Monastiraki, + 30 (0)210 3210185, odysseus.culture.gr; O Platanos, 4 Diogenous, Pláka, +30 (0)210 3220666; Nissakia Wave Society, 29 Karystou Rd, Loutsa, +30 (0)229 4026323, www.nissakia.gr; Museum Benaki, 1 Koumbari St. & Vas. Sofias Ave., +30 (0)210 3671000, www.benaki.gr; Hoxton, Voutadon 42, Gazi, +30 (0)210 3413395; Café Abyssinia, Plateia Abyssinia, Monastiraki, +30 (0)210 3217047; Café Dioscouri, 39 Andrianou, Monastiraki; Temple of Poseidon, Soúnio, +30 (0)229 2039363; The Medusa Art Gallery, 7 Xenokratous St., Kolonaki, +30 (0)210 7244552, www.medusaartgallery.com; The Athens Gate Hotel, 10 Syngrou Avenue;
Can I drink the water?
The eight essential questions you'll need answering
Which local animal is likely to hospitalise me?
If you're on holiday in Athens it's not the local animals you need to worry about, but look out for tourists on mopeds.
Which native liquor will make me think I am attractive?
It's the aniseed flavour spirit called ouzo. It's a bit like Pernod, but ordering it with blackcurrant is not cool.
How can I avoid a beating by the local hard nuts?
Don't stare. Locals might think you are passing on the 'Evil Eye' - an ancient superstition that is still very much believed.
Will I get lost?
You may struggle to relcoate your Athens hotel from time to time, but getting lost is all part of the charm of the city.
Will I find myself?
Probably not. Peaceful introspection on an Athens holiday tends to get interrupted by smashing plates.
Should I take an umbrella?
Only to protect yourself from the sun. Athens does not get much rain.
What should I order in a restaurant to impress the locals?
Dolmades are vine leaves stuffed with rice, herbs, pine nuts and seasoning. Delicious with tzatziki (yoghurt, cucumber and garlic).
Can I drink the water?
Tap water in Athens is perfectly safe to drink, as in most main Greek cities, but if you visit any islands it's best to stick to bottled - it's widely available.
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